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Acoustat Electrostatic loudspeakers
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David May (2005-09-06): Is Acoustat still in business? address?
Is service/repair available for Acoustat electostatics. Is the model 4 still available?
If so, what is the retail price.(per pair)
Thank you very much
David May
James Wong (2005-09-08): Acoustat went out of business in 1992 and the brand was acquired by Audio Physics. In 1993 Acoustat was relocated to Italy. The Acoustat spekaers were then only sold in Italy. In 2004 Acoustat moved to China. In 2005 Acoustat launched new models.
Andy Szabo (2009-06-21): Acoustat USA is no longer in business. There is no official repair service available, but if you write again with a specific problem I can possibly help you or direct you to a source of parts and/or service.
The Model Four was one of the earlier models produced by Acoustat, and was discontinued probably mid-80's or earlier.
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Acoustat 1+1
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Raul (2009-06-21): Does anyone know where I can get some further information about the Acoustat 1+1?
Andy Szabo (2009-06-21): What kind of information are you looking for? The owners manual for the 1+1 is included in the Acoustat Manual CD available from this website. If your question is not answered there, please post specific questions here and I will answer as best possible.
Robert (2009-07-13): If you want a set, I have one to sell. You can contact me at rjpaulsen1@ g mail (dot) com.
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Acoustat 2+2
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Roy (2009-03-09): I have recently purchased a pair of Acoustat 2+2. The left speaker seems louder than the right one. I can centre the imaging by positioning the speakers assymetrically which is not the proper solution.
If positioned symmetrically i.e. both in the same position on both sides of the room and toed in the same, the image is way to the left so I get only half a soundstage with the the whole performance from the middle of the stage to the extreme left and nothing on the right. There is output from the right speaker and, listening from close up, it is not obviously down in volume.
I believe the Spectra 66 volages can be adjusted. Is this possible with the 2+2 and, if so, how? This unit has the MK121-2A power supply/crossover with Medalion transformers.
regards
ROY
Andy Szabo (2009-03-09): The bias voltage cannot be adjusted on the Model 2+2, as can be done on Spectra models with the Ultrasonic Bias Power Supply. The bias supply on the MK-121 series is fixed and unregulated.
But you are correct in suspecting that you may have a problem with low bias voltage. Elsewhere on this site, check out my Technical Bulletin that discusses measuring the bias voltage. You may have a bad diode or capacitor in the voltage multiplier that is causing a low bias voltage.
You might also check the blue and white wire connections to the panels' stators. If one of the stators is not energized, it will definitely cause the speaker to play at reduced volume. If the hook terminals at the end of the wires are covered with heatshrink tubing, the wires may be broken inside the tubing even though it looks securely attached from the outside.
Since you didn't mention that the reduced volume is frequency dependent, you can probably rule out a problem with the audio transformers (good news!)
I suggest you measure the bias voltage on each speaker to see if they are very different from each other. If so, measure the voltage with the speaker connected, and then again with the speaker disconnected. If the bad speaker measures low under either condition, then you have a problem with the bias supply. If it measures low only when the speaker is connected, there is something in the panel that is drawing down the voltage (this is a pretty rare circumstance). This can also be verified by swapping the interfaces from one speaker to the other.
Do write again if you can't solve the problem. We WILL get your speakers working properly!
Roy (2009-03-10): Thanks for the advice. Actually, I thought the hook connectors were broken rings so I replaced them with rings crimped and soldered.
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Acoustat Choices
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N. Tony Fasola (2007-10-03): I realize that this is a very broad question but I would truly appreciate input from the listers. I am an original Acoustat owner from the early 80's (Model 3) who has been without for almost 20 years. I am currently getting back into "audio" and building a dedicated room for such. (15 X 17) My question is: which model, Spectra 22/2200 or the 2 + 2's should I choose?
Sonics are tantamount but reliabilty and others are also important. I just wanted to hear from owners and those experienced with both models.
Thanks in advance,
N. Tony Fasola
Andy Szabo (2007-10-07): Thanks for your interest in returning to the Acoustat culture! Despite their age, Acoustat speakers remain a viable solution for audiophiles seeking excellence at a reasonable price.
In terms of reliability, I wouldn't have a strong preference for either model, as all models have enjoyed an excellent reputation for reliability and long life. Clearly, any 2+2 will be older than any Spectra 22/2200, since the models did not overlap in production.
In terms of stereo imaging, I would definitely prefer the Spectra series, with their controlled dispersion pattern.
In terms of bass response and dynamic capacity, the 2+2 would be preferred. It simply has twice the panel area.
Also consider that the 2+2 was manufactured for a very long time, and had several minor and major improvements during its life. Most important is the Medallion Transformers, which significantly improved the clarity of the sound. Many older models were upgraded with the newer transformers, so the age of the speaker is no indication as to whether it has the Medallions. All units with Medallion transformers have a label on the back of the interface.
Ultimately, if you are trying to choose between the 2+2 and the 22/2200, my suggestion would be to seek out a pair of 44/4400's. This model would give you all of the advantages cited above in one speaker (i.e. no compromises). Granted, the 44/4400 wasn't made in great numbers, so finding one might not be easy. But if you have a large (and tall) enough room for the double-height Acoustats, the 44/4400 would be way to go.
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Acoustat Links
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Andrew Tomlinson (2007-08-24): I don't know where else to post this but a number of links "Rehabilitation of a Spectra 4400"as an example are not working
Thanks
Andrew
Andy Szabo (2007-09-07): Thanks for the notification, Andrew. I had already noticed this problem, and have notified the webmaster. He has promised to fix the problem.
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Acoustat MK-121-B
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Chad (2008-08-15): Hello, I recently came across a pair of tower speakers with the Acoustat MK-121-B as the type on the back of the plate.
I would like some info on what these would sell for, or if this is a desirable model. I hooked them up to my Toshiba receiver and they sounded quite nice, although I think an amplifier would help the sound.
Any info would be appreciated!
Chad
Andy Szabo (2008-09-15): Unfortunately, Acoustat usually didn't identify the model number on the speaker. The MK-121 designation refers only to the 'black box' transformer interface and power supply on the rear of the speaker. This box was common to several models. If you can provide the overall dimensions of the speaker, I can probably identify the model number.
Yes, Acoustat speakers are still highly sought after, despite having been out of production for over 15 years. They are very reliable, and have shown little tendency to degrade with time. They can represent a fantastic bargain for buyers interested in the used market. Compared to more conventional speakers, they are rather inefficient and difficult to drive, so a large separate amplfier is recommended to get the maximum performance.
Even without knowing the model number, I can say that they are probably worth at least $500 for the pair.
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Acoustat power supplies
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Dick Lanham (2004-05-08): I am having trouble with both power supplies of my MK 121 - C. First of all I cannot find a MODEL NUMBER on the casing. The only numbers are serial number 01096877 and 010960 (or 8)78. The only words Medallion Transformer. I have someone working on the power supplies but he needs the schematics and parts list. MK 121 - C have 7 models. Is the power supply the same for all models? Where can I look for the MODEL NUMBER if they supplies are not all interchangeable? If my technician cannot repair my power supplies or working modesl (new or used in good repair) available? If so, where? If not, could another company's power supplies work? If so, which companies. Any help you can give me will be most appreciated. Thanks. Dick Lanham
Andy Szabo (2004-05-15): Sorry, Acoustat was never much for identifying its model numbers. Fortunately, the MK-121 Series is electrically the same for many different models (there are differences in physical chassis style). The only change is the low-frequency transformer tap, which is user-adjustable.
Schematics and Parts Lists are available from this site. Ask for the Owner’s Manual that applies to the Models One, 1+1, 2+2, and 3. The manual available may have the schematic for the MK-121B, which is slightly different. If so, ask for the MK-121-C schematic, which is available separately.
Most repair parts are available, especially now that some new-old-stock audio transformers have appeared on the market. These are frequently available on e-Bay from Sound Valves.
If your local technician cannot repair your interfaces (they are a bit unusual, and difficult to test), you might try contacting Roy Esposito at Sounds Like New. See the section under “Refurbishing” for further details.
Dick Lanham (2004-07-13): Please see my answer to my own question in Capacitors, again. Thanks
Dick Lanham
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Acoustat Spectra
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Marc (2006-02-01): Hi -
I own a pair of Acoustat Spectra speakers and I have some questions with regards to imaging and punch.
What would be the best way to have more punch and increase or perfect the imaging of these speakers - shall I get two 10 inch active subwoofers and connect each subwoofer to one speaker?????
I run an Audire Forte amplifier with them - is it enough power and high current
Thx
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Acoustat Spectra Panels
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Jim Lanier (2007-08-21): I have a question about the sectoring of the Spectra panels. What are the widths of the Spectra panels? Are they all the same size?
It is my understanding that they are electrically sectored but not mechanically separated. Is this correct? (ie if the moving surface is 8" wide the stators are electrically separated in the center(4" from edge)..meaning that the high frequency drive from the full range side can mechanically propagate to the mid/low side of the diaphragm)
Andy Szabo (2007-08-21): All of the panels used in Spectra models are Acoustat's standard 9-inch panel. They are electrically divided in half by making the wire stators in two sections (both front and back). Both electrical sections share a common diaphragm.
I wouldn't worry too much about propogation from one section to the next. Electrostatic forces are very weak, and the effects of the stators on adjacent diaphragm areas will be negligible. I suppose there could be some mechanical propogation of the sound waves across the diaphragm, but it's not something that I'm going to lose any sleep over. Nor should you.
Jim Lanier (2007-08-21): Thanks for the answer. I was not debating the pitfalls. I just wanted to know if Acoustat built them that way. BTW, the mechanical propagation would be substantial, but this is not always bad. The speed of sound through the solid is much different than through air.
I have been designing and building electrostats for about 30 years and some of mine have done just that. It is however a parameter to consider when modeling dispersion characteristics. The vector analysis is just a little more work :)
Thanks again,
Jim
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Acoustat Trans-Nova Twin-200
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Darryl Chagi (2006-10-22): I am looking for a transistor for my TNT 200. Toshiba is no longer
making the 2SK146, the one I need. Does anyone have a few they could sell, or let me know where I could buy some. Or know of another FET that could takes its place.
Thanks. Darryl
Andy Szabo (2007-01-20): Try contacting Roy Esposito at 'Sounds Like New' at soundslikenew@prodigy.net.
SLN does good Acoustat repairs. Roy may have the parts you need, or may be able to suggest an available substitute.
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Adding Panels
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wanchai (2008-09-11): Hi Andy,I'd like to bother you again. I am myself the Acoustat freak because I love their nuance and smooth sound. I have own 2+2,1-s mk141c, DIY 3+3 connected to Soundlab m3 interface and a bunch of 8" & 9" panels. But the life is not easy whenever I compare Acoustats to my Apogee DIVA ,they still lack the high freq. transient and macrodynamic even they have better quiet noise floor and microdynamic. When I listen to 1-s which has the high pass filter and low pass to the subwoofer ,they have better transparency to 2+2. So I guess that the low freq. may interfere to the high freq. when they are driven full range to the same panel.Now my question is I want to add 1-8"+1-9" with new frame to my 2+2 by connecting to the high audio transformer (after the capaitor) and let 2+2 connected to the low audio transformer only. Is there any problem such as audio transfomer saturation ,etc? And will it help ?
Andy Szabo (2008-09-25): Your observation that the Model 1 with woofer is 'more transparent" than the 2+2 may be correct, but I don't think it is due to the low frequencies being absent from the transformer or panel. Rather, I think it is because the wider area of the 2+2, operating full range, does tend to 'smear' the sound somewhat, compared to the narrow, single-panel 'line source' speakers like the Model 1 and 1+1. This is a compromise inherent in all of the older Acoustat speakers. That is, the smaller, narrower models tend to have superior imaging and transparency, with the larger, wider models having better bass and dynamics. This is the reason that the Spectra series was developed: to avoid that compromise. All Spectra models have the same, narrow-width panel area producing the high frequencies. This way, all the models have very similar imaging and transparency, with the larger models simply offering more of the same great sound, with deeper bass and greater dynamics. The Spectra models no longer force listeners to accept that compromise between different models - the choice of which model to buy becomes more a matter of economics and room size.
That said, I doubt you can accomplish your stated goals by adding more panels. You must remember that there is considerable overlap between the high and low frequency transformers, and they cannot be thought of as 'woofer' and 'tweeter' transformers. They operate together over a considerable span of the midrange.
As long as your are attempting to use the older (pre-Spectra) models, you will be forever frustrated by their inherent compromise - no single model has everything that you are looking for. Since you do like so much about the 'Acoustat Sound' (and there is a lot to like) I suggest you look into one of the Spectra models. They appear frequently on eBay, sometimes for very reasonable cost.
Another option might be to add a line source ribbon tweeter, which could certainly extend the top-octave response. However, just like adding a subwoofer to a system, it can be difficult to find a component that has a similar sound chararteristic, and getting the phase, amplitude and crossover point 'dialed-in' can take quite a bit of experimentation.
And in case you are wondering, (and I know you are!) no, it is not possible to create a Spectra model using the MK121 transformers. The Spectra transformers are radically different than the MK121 transformers, and it's just not possible to get the required equalization from the old-style transformers.
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Bass transformer resistor MK-121
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Gary Clausen (2007-06-06): I've heard of replacing the 1 ohm wirewound resistor in series with the large bass transformer with 1 ohm 25Watt Dale in the heatsink case and have a set with that mod for in a MK-121 C mod. pair. I was think of doing similar for my other pairs (surround setup), but have 1.5 ohm and 2 ohm 50 watters.(2 of each) What would the effect be of using this higher value?
Andy Szabo (2007-06-09): I would not recommend using more than 1-ohm in this application. The DC resistance of the low-frequency (LF) transformer is extremely low, and if your amplifier had any residual DC output, it could cause excessive DC current flow. The 1-ohm resistor (in series with the LF transformer's primary)raises the DC resistance to a safe level to prevent this from happening.
Some people have suggested removing this resistor entirely, but that is bad idea for the reason mentioned above.
The sonic improvement in replacing this resistor will be minimal at best. If you can't replace it with a value in the 0.75 to 1.0-ohm range, I would suggest you leave it alone.
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Bi-amping Spectra series
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Robin McConnell (2007-08-23): I have been fortunate to fulfil a very longtime ambition to own a pair of Spectra 66 Acoustats. I currently have 2+2's which I love and have modified to allow them to be driven by 4 valve monoblocks. Is it as simple to modify the audio inputs of the Spectra series and are there any other mods which I should carry out at the same time which will improve the speakers?
The speakers I have purchased are 110V models and our supply is 240V 50Hz. Do the speakers have different supply voltage taps or will I have to use a T/x on the input? Thanks in advance, Robin
Andy Szabo (2007-08-24): The Spectra series does not lend itself to simple biamplification, but it can be done. The Spectra uses two identical audio transformers, rather than a high and low frequency transformer as on the earlier models. I suppose one could separate the primary feeds to the two transformers, and drive each one with a separate amplifier channel. Be sure to drive one of the transformers out-of-phase, since one drives the front stator, and the other drives the rear stator. You would need to completely disassemble the interfaces to gain access to the transformer's primary connections. That sounds like a lot of work to me, and I'm not sure of the sonic benefits, but if you already have the amplifiers, I can see the attraction of the idea.
Since your Spectra 66 has a 110V input, I am assuming it is an earlier model without the Ultrasonic bias supply. There are no taps to change inside the interface, but you can solve this problem in one of two ways. Since the power consumption of the bias supply is so low, you could use a 240-to-110 step-down transformer to obtain the required 110 volts. Or, you could change the bias transformer to part number TTA-240V, which is the 240-volt version. I have seen these recently for sale on eBay, from the seller 'dealsbyjason'.
I can't think of any modifications to do on the Spectra 66, since the circuit is so simple. There is only one capacitor in the audio path, and it is already polypropylene. You could increase it's value somewhat if you like. See my piece "Rehabilitation of the Spectra 4400" in the 4400 section.
Good luck, and congratulations on obtaining the finest speaker Acoustat ever made! I have the Spectra 4400's, and I am very happy with them.
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Bias supply smoothing caps
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Gary Clausen (2007-06-04): I've come across a lot of Vitamin Q P52477 caps rated .1uF 7500Vdc. Does anybody know the dielectric used in these and whether they would be suitable as bias supply filters as I have read about in various mods for the Acoustats? They are rectangular cans approx. 3.75in. W X 3.25in. L X 1.375in. D with some ceramic insulating post that are about 2.25in. L adding to the 3.25in for total of 5.5in. L I have enough that I can do my complete surround setup plus some left to sell if any interest.
Andy Szabo (2007-06-09): Please disregard anything you've read about modifying the Acoustat bias power supply. All the 'suggested improvements' I've seen range from merely silly (offering no improvement) to stupid (actually degrading performace)to down-right dangerous (shock hazard, possibly lethal).
The factory-original bias supply is quite adequate for the job, and I strongly suggest (and beg) for you to DO NOTHING.
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Capacitors
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Richard J. Lanham (2004-05-29): In repairing my power supplies (interfaces), my technician is having difficulty locating a capacitor. It is a 0.01 microfarad @ 6000 volts. He needs four (4) of these. Can anyone tell me where these can be bought? Thanks so much.
Dick Lanham
Andy Szabo (2004-06-02): The 0.01-uF, 6000-volt polypropylene axial capacitors are available from several sources (see “Refurbishing”). But the easiest and most direct source is Sound Valves. They have a large inventory of genuine Acoustat new-old-stock. Sound Valves almost always has Acoustat items listed on e-Bay. I know for sure that they have the parts you need, as I have seen them auctioned several times.
Dick Lanham (2004-07-13): Please see my answer to my own question, below in Capacitors again. Thanks.
Dick Lanham
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Capacitors, again
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Dick Lanham (2004-06-10): I am trying to buy 0.01 microfarad @ 6000 volts capacitors to repair my interfaces (power supplies) on my MK 121 - C speakers. Mr. Andy Szabo suggested Sound Valves in Columbus, Ohio, USA. I looked the company up on the web and tried to email them. The email was rejected. So I telephoned. The number was disconnected. I looked for them on ebay and could find nothing. So I assume the company is out of business. I could not find another company in the Refurbishing portion of this website to replace them as a source for these capacitors. So if Andy or anyone else has a further suggestion as to where I might get these parts (I need four [4] of them), I would be most appreciative. Thanks for your help.
Dick Lanham
Lee Swanson (2004-06-18): Dick, keep trying. Sound Valves is currently offering several Acoustat auctions on eBay as of this date, June 18, 2004. Simply contact them through eBay.
Dick Lanham (2004-07-13): I finally found these capacitors, after skipping along the web from site to site, starting with hints on this website.
The company is No Time Delay (NTD), 7491 Talbert Avenue, Huntington Beach, CA (California) 92648. Their telephone is 1-714-842-3720. Their fax is 1-714-375-5537. (If you are calling outside of the USA and Canada, you must use the access code for the USA before dialing those 2 numbers.) The person at NTD who knew the most about these capacitors is Tom. Even NTD, however, did not have the capacitors in stock, but had to order them. It took about 1 week for NTD to get them in and another week or so for the order form to be faxed to me, signed, returned, and the capacitors to be sent out and received. There is a US$50.00 minimum. That's what I paid. I do not know what the capacitors themselves cost. I want to thank this site, Hans Zeeuwe, Andy Szabo, and all others who helped me. I have given my technician the information about Audio Circuit and how to reach you. He is Warren, at Stereo Chamber, Union Road at Orchard Park Road, Orchard Park, New York, 1-716-675-8300.
Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Dick Lanham
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Cross Over Modification
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Wanchai (2008-07-12): Hi Andy,After my Crossing the Species Project,I notice that the Low Audio Transformer in Soundlab m3 has the coil series 5 mH,10 mH and 20 mH infront which I made some modification to reduce to about 1.5 mH to raise the dip in mid freq. My question is why Acoustat 2+2 has only resistor series to the Low Audio Transformer instead of providing coil infront series to let lowpass filter to the Transformer as Soundlab. Now I am going to put 1 mH series to my Acoustat 2+2 to minimize the interference from the Low to High Audio Transformer which I hope to solve the weakness of high freq. in Acoustat 2+2. Your comment and explanation will be appreciated.
Andy Szabo (2008-07-13): In Acoustat's MK-121-series interface, the high and low frequency transformers overlap considerably in their range of operation. No crossover is necessary to roll-off the highs going to the LF transformer - its own natural roll-off is sufficient. Think of it this way: the LF transformer is the 'main' transformer, covering as much of the audio spectrum as it can. The HF transformer merely picks up where the LF transformer begins to roll-off. The HF transformer uses a high-pass crossover to prevent low frequencies from saturating its smaller core.
The purpose the the 1-ohm resistor in series with the LF transformer is to make sure the DC resistance of the interface is not less than 1-ohm (otherwise, the DC resistance of the transformer itself is only a small fraction of an ohm). In cases of a slight DC offset from your amplifier, this prevents excessive current flow. I recommend that this resistor remain in circuit, although some advantage may be gained by replacing it with a better quality part.
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CROSSING THE SPECIES
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Wanchai (2007-07-31): I just bought 8 of standard 9" panels and 4 of ex soundlab eng. modified 9" panels.And I ruined the exist. panel of Soundlab m3 by heat air gun.(suggest not to do heat treatment for esl. if no really necessity). The interfaces of Soundlab and Acoustat are nearly the same concept with dividing two ranges of hi & low freq. step up transformers to the stators.I have no idea of what are the figures (size of Soundlab's stator transformers are much larger than Acoustat mk121 c_mod.)but they have attenuators for three ranges hi,mid,low in Soundlab m3's interfaces.The DC voltage for the mylar is 15 KV (three times higher than Acoustat)with bias attenuator also.My questions are :can I make new frames for 6 panels per side like Acoustat 6 and connect to the Soundlab m3's interfaces. Do I need any modification in the circuit of Soundlab to fit to the Acoustat panels? I plan to put 2 mod. panels straight at the middle and 4 standard panels by both sides with angle.What is the suggested angle. Any more advices will be appreciated. I think your reply would be useful for the Sounlab's owners whoever have the problems with their panels or Acoustat's owners whoever have the problems with their interfaces.
Andy Szabo (2007-08-03): You will need to reduce the bias voltage from 15 KV to 5 KV. I do not recommend any higher than 5 KV for the Acoustat panel. Since I am not familiar with the Soundlab bias power supply, I can not suggest how you would lower the voltage, or even if it can be done.
I do not know if the Soundlab audio transformer(s)can handle the capacitance of six Acoustat panels. The standard Acoustat Model Six actually used two MK-121 interfaces per speaker, because the audio transformers are designed to drive four panels maximum.
The angle between panels for the Model Six is about 6 degrees.
Unless one is intimately familiar with both Acoustat and Soundlab technologies, then this could be a very frustrating project. If you are attempting to mix Acoustat and Soundlab panels in one speaker, this will only serve to complicate matters further (especially if they have different bias voltage requirements, different equalization, etc.)
All in all, I can't say I would recommend attempting such a combination of different brands. For any brand, the ESL panels and corresponding audio step-up and bias supply are designed as a set, and trying to mix different designs will be very difficult if not impossible. Since you own a bunch of Acoustat panels already, I might suggest trying to find some MK-121 interfaces or servocharge amplifiers to drive them.
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Diaphragm Spacer Thickness
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Jim Lanier (2007-10-07): Does anyone know the thickness of the diaphragm spacers in the Acoustat panel? Did they change the thickness in later models? (BTW, I am not asking for diaphragm to wire spacing, but the actual thickness of the shim)
Jim
Andy Szabo (2007-10-07): If memory serves correctly (and it might be a little dusty) the shim stock used used as spacers in the Acoustat panel is .150" thick. If you have a panel at hand, it is easy enough to see from the edge of the panel.
I am not aware that Acoustat changed the shim stock anytime during the manufacture of their panels. The only panel changes were 1) going from a three-wire to a five-wire connection to the interface; 2) increasing the resistance of the conductive coating (identified by a yellow w/red stripe bias wire); and finally, 3) Spectra panels, which were built using the same materials, the only difference being the split stator grids.
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Grille cloth, cleaning
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Lou (2004-02-23): I have discovered several things that may be of interest to you and others.
The cleaning the socks: on mine I had slobber stains from my dog, God knows what all from my boys, and the usual dirt. I tried this, I tried that, and was nearly ready to just toss in the towel and have some made, when I decided to give it one more try using DiDi7, which you might remember from old TV commercials.
Where I run into trouble is stapling and nailing the sock, and the rails back on. Did you use air tools for this? I suspect that you did. Also, I ruined 2 brass pieces prior to figuring out how to get them off. Do you know the source for these, and did they come with double sided foam tape, or did you supply it? Any info. would be greatly appreciated.
The brass can be easily removed using cigarette lighter fluid to loosen the glue, be careful as it also softens the paint on the side rails if you get it on them.
Sincerely, Lou
martin (2005-06-26): In twenty years I've washed the (white) socks on my 1+1s twice. The first disassembly was tedious (carefully extracting each staple), and when it came time to reassemble them I decided to try to make it easier for the next time. So I fitted the sock so as to have just enough material at the top to fold under the top plate, and screwed it down to hold the sock. The other end was a bit trickier, but after some fussing I ended up with the sock held quite snugly by entrapment and no staples.
I really, really appreciated this when I had to clean one of them again after a spill a few years later. On that occasion I gave up with one corner of the sock not quite captured, so there's a bit of loose cloth at the bottom in one corner. If you're the sort to be fussed by such cosmetic flaws, then perhaps you'd better use the annoying staples; for me, this is the obviously saner way to do it!
Sounds Like New (2006-02-28): When I had my Model Two's with the Beige cloth, I used a sponge soaked with hydrogen peroxide 5 percent solution (from the drugstore in the brown bottles, next to the rubbing alcohol)
Soak the cloth RIGHT ON THE SPEAKER, thoroughly with the solution. The result I obtained was beautiful and like new, since I had no tears or holes in the fabric. All stains and dirt was gone.
Buy several bottle and soak the cloth very well.
This will not hurt the panels or frames, but be sure to unplug them from the AC power first.
If you feel uncomfortable doing this, try it first on the backside of a speaker and let it dry for a few hours to see the result.
Of course, new "socks" are available from The Upholstery Company in Mesa Arizona USA
(480-898-9521 or 888-994-8273)
They have the Acoustat original colors and also custom colors available for all models.
!!!! CAUTION !!!!
DO NOT TRY THE ABOVE CLEANING METHOD ON ANY BUT THE BEIGE COLOR ACOUSTAT SOCKS. !!!!!!!
I now own and very much enjoy .....
Acoustat Model THREE Slimline Medallions, In Black and Teak.
Roy A. Esposito
The Acoustat Service Company
Repairs / Restorations / Upgrades / Modifications
soundslikenew@prodigy.net
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HF circuit 2123
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Luetzelberger, Peter (2004-12-02): We have a Acoustat speaker herer, where the electronic circuit does not work. The IC (LM13080) is dead. However this OpAmp is no longer available, and there is no replacement proposed by the manufacturer. What can we do? replace the whole circuit by a 27kHz sinewave generator wit some 20mA output current and approx. 15V output voltage? Or is any equivalent IC known? We tried LM386 (single voltage supply, change pins 1 to 2), but it didn't work.
Your help is very much appreciated.
Andy Szabo (2006-03-29): Acoustat did have some trouble with early designs of the Ultrasonic Bias Power Supply. The usual symptom was that it simply would not oscillate, and hence produce no bias voltage. Your circuit probably needs upgrading to the new design, with no need to replace the LM13080 (which unfortunately is obsolete).
See my Technical Bulletin "Ultrasonic Bias Power Supply - Update for Spectra Series" for an easy way to upgrade this circuit. Once modified, the curcuit is very reliable. I've never actually seen a case where the Op Amp itself was bad.
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Identification needed, another Italian HY-BRID
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Jake (2004-02-23): Acoustat HY-BRID. This model was made in Italy around 1985. It was apparently the top model at 57”h w/s a 12”w panel & 8' sub. Panel @ 4ohms and sub @ 3ohms. The transformer had twin speakers w/s a toroidal winding rated at 4000v and amps at 0.004 and 120v. It looks similar to the 1400 but has better specs. Could anyone identify? Thanks Jake.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): If your speaker was manufactured by Acoustat - Italy, then it would have been manufactured much later, more like 1995. In 1985, Acoustat was a Division of The David Hafler Company, and located in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, USA.
Your description does not sound like anything produced by Acoustat anytime during its US-ownership. Unfortunately, that is where my expertise ends. Can anyone else provide further information?
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Identification needed, MK-2106 interface
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Norbert Korba (2004-02-23): Hello Andy, I am mailing from Germany, so please excuse my bad English. Now my question: I''ve have owned two Acoustat panels which have a height about 240 cm, I think that is approx. 94 inches. The interfaces are MK-2106 type. Which model type is this speaker? Could it be a spectra type, or even an italian one? Thanks a lot for answering my question. Norbert.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): To the best of my knowledge, Acoustat (America) never produced a speaker with an interface model number MK-2106. According to the models listed on this site, Acoustat (Italy) does (or did) produce a Spectra 6600, though I suspect it was different from the 6600 produced by Acoustat (America). This is the only Italian-made speaker that would fit your height description of 240 cm.
I assume you have an Italian Spectra 6600. Since I have never seen an Italian Acoustat in person, I cannot offer any tips on identifying characteristics, and therefore I cannot be sure this is what you have.
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Identification needed, model unknown
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Tom Land (2004-02-23): I purchased a pair of Acoustat speakers about two years ago but still do not know the model. The only #'s are on the interface which are MK-121 2A. The speakers including the base are 36” wide x 58.5” tall. If you guys have the answer or know of anyone who does I would appreciate the help.
Erik Hoheneder (2004-02-23): I've recently had the same dilemma regarding these exact-dimensioned Acoustats. After much searching and very little info on the web, I found an authoritative source at Rockford Fosgate. I send the folks at Rockford a picture of mine along with dimensions and transformer info (Transformer model MK-121-2A). Two days later they returned that these are the somewhat rare Acoustat Model 4s. Give them a call if you like (I forget the number, but it's easy to find on the web and they seemed happy to help).
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Identification needed, mystery model from Italy?
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Fred (2004-02-23): Hello, the model I would like I.D. was mfg. in Italy around 1995 approximately. They are said to be the last mfg. before closure. The panels were charged by a single toroidal transformer at 4000v -0.05 va. The sub is 8” at 3ohms and the panels at 4ohms. A picture is send seperately. Hope you can help. Thanks and regards Fred.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): I don't know much about the Italian Acoustat models. However, using the information already posted on this site, along with the information and photo you have provided, I will attempt an answer.
There are photos on this site of the Italian models 1300 and 1400. The model 1300 appears to be a two-panel-per-speaker unit with no woofer, probably similar to the Spectra 22 or 2200. The model 1400 appears to be a single-panel-per-speaker unit with woofer, perhaps similar to the Spectra 11 or 1100. Your photo, which also appears to be a single-panel-per-speaker with woofer, is probably a Model 1200. I have no way of telling what the technical differences might be between the two single-panel models 1200 and 1400. Perhaps one of them has a better woofer system, similar to the Spectra 11 vs. the Spectra 1100.
Does anyone have more complete information?
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Improving dispersion
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Gary Clausen (2007-06-22): Ok, finally I have several B&G (Carver)ribbons and thinking about building some new frames as I've got to replace some ripped pannels anyway. Thinkning about placing them between panels and wondering if that 11 degree angle should still be used and good x-over freq and slope? I see some others have supplemented their Electrostats with ribbons.
Andy Szabo (2007-07-06): I don't have any direct experience adding ribbons to Acoustats, so I can give you only general advice. You didn't say what model Acoustat you have. If it's a two-panel wide speaker, (i.e. Model 2 or 2+2, it is probably best to place the ribbon between the two panels. If it's a three panel wide speaker, I would put the ribbon between the inner and center panel (thus yielding mirror image speakers).
The recommended crossover and slope would be best recommended by the manufacturer of the ribbons. If your aim is to extend the very top-end response, then crossing over rather high (maybe above 5 kHz?) would be sufficient. But it really depends most on the ribbon.
Any one else have experience in this area?
Gary Clausen (2007-07-26): Hi Andy, The Carvers are normally used around 150-175Hz with a rather steep 18dB slope in their design. I do have a pair of Model Two's and 2 pairs of Two+Two's. I was also thinking that another way I could improve dispersion would be to use the inermost panels (facing listener) full range with the resistors from the bass x-former summing with the caps from the high x-former and then add another pair of 50K 50W ohmites to just the output of the bass trannies and feed the outermost pair form just the bass side. I would then put the ribbons on the inermost side of each pair (to get the mirror images)crossing at much higher freq with gentler slope. I imagine the I would probably want some low pass filter on the output side of the resistors feeding the bass only panels to help keep the higher freqs from causing two wide surface to be used to reproduce highs.
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Increasing HF
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Fancesco Izzo (2007-04-26): Hello, I own a pair of Spectra 11 and they sound very well to me but sometimes when listening to various musical programs I would like to obtain a bit more treble in the upper end of the frequencies, I guess if there is a way to do that (I don't have tone controls on my amps...), maybe any mods in the values of the components (capacitors, resistors) would do the job?
Thank you very much.
Francesco Izzo
Italy
Andy Szabo (2007-04-27): Yes, there is a simple mod you can do. There is a large 1-ohm resistor on the pc board inside the interface. Don't confuse it with the similar looking 10-ohm resistor. This resistor may be reduced in value, all the way down to zero ohms if you desire. This will reduce HF roll-off, although don't be expecting a big change.
The penalty of doing this(and the reason that resistor is there) is that you will reduce the speaker's impedance by the same amount at high frequencies. If your amplifier is okay with that, then you should have no problems.
The HF Balance switch on the upgrade-version Spectra 1100 gives three possible values of that same resistor: HI is zero ohms, MED is 0.4-ohms, and LO is 1-ohm.
Also keep in mind, that if your amplifier has low damping factor at high frequencies (i.e. high output impedance), that will combine with the low HF impedance of the speaker to create significant HF roll-off.
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Integrated (or power) amps for Acoustat?
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Daniel Poirier (2007-02-12): My old trusty power amps (PS Audio) are getting old and their capacitors are drying out... I have had them repaired a few times already, but I think eventually, I'll have to face the facts: I'll need a new integrated amp (or a pre-amp and a power amp).
The dilemma, of course, is to find an amp that won't fry when it hits the low impedance of the Acoustats... I've read somewhere that it can be as low as 1 ohm at certain frequencies...
I don't invest as much in audio as I did when I first bought my Acoustats (in 1983)... so I am not really looking for a $2000 amplifier.
Any suggestions for amps that can handle the Acoustats? Am i looking for "high current"? Is that synonymous with "capable of handling low impedance speakers"?
Any typical brands or models that can find their way into eBay (and are not 20 years old)? Or new models that can cut it and still be affordable?
If it matters, mine are model 2C (dual panels, with a sub-woofer in the transformer box in the back).
Thanks...
Daniel
Andy Szabo (2007-02-24): The good news is that there are probably more suitable amplifiers on the market today, than there were when the speakers were new.
If you are looking to buy new, there are probably few, if any, good condidates below $1000, especially if you are looking for an integrated amp.
Buying used can be a good route to go. Acoustat amplifiers are well suited, of course, but even the newest of them are nearly 20 years old. The Hafler Transnova series (9000 series model numbers) were also designed by Jim Strickland, and are a very good choice, and a bit newer. I use a Halfer 9500 with very good results, but some of the smaller models would work well also. Don't overlook the Hafler Pro series - they're the same amps inside. Many more brands would work well, but I have no personal experience with them.
Anyone else care to comment here?
Hans Zeeuwe (2007-03-26): You may want to take a look at the Quad ESL 57 section. In the 'Reviews' section there are two or three articles on amplifiers and the Quad ESL 57. As the ESL 57 is famous for being a rather difficult load for amplifiers, the articles may apply for the Acoustats as well. At least it should guide you in the right direction.
Silvan Karrer (2007-05-10): As I have the Acoustat 1+1, the impendance of this model is not going lower than 3Ohm. To my opinion, the amp has to deliver a lot of current. The watt amount is not the point, the amp has to have strong current delivery! I can recommend KR Audio Amps, or Krell as transistor amps. I prefere tube amps for the acoustats!
Cheers, Silvan
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Interface Repair
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Chuck Rieman (2006-06-28): I haven't been able to reach Sounds Like New or Roy Esposito. Roy - are you out there??
Roy A. Esposito (2006-07-27): As Always ....Roy A. Esposito, A key member of the Acoustat Corp. original engineering staff for many years, can be contacted at :
soundslikenew@prodigy.net
to arrange Acoustat service and updating
on MK- , TNT- and TNP- units, as well as some other models.
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Interface resistors
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Gord (2005-01-23): Does anyone know if the large resistors used in the 121B interfaces are of the non inductive type or regular? Thanks
Martin Maney (2005-08-08): The ones I've seen were not non-inductive. The way they're used in the HF circuit, the inductance of the portion of the resistor in series with the HF signal path would have been negligible, I think; the DC ballast resistor in the LF circuit even more so. OTOH, I can't see any possible drawback to using NI wound resistors aside from their generally somewhat greater cost!
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Interfaces
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Al Wirth (2006-02-20): How many panels can you run off one interface? Al
Roy A. Esposito (2006-02-28): they were designed for up to four, but you can safely run five..... although you may incur a slight hump in the bass response.
---- ROY
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Interfaces, 110V bias transformers with 220V bias
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Ephraim Meyer (2004-02-23): Hello Andy, Will it be safe to substitute 110V bias transformers with 220V bias transformers in my interfaces? I have two 121A interfaces and two 121c Medallion interfaces. Both the interfaces are original from Acoustat, including all the transformers. Do you think there is a need to measure the output voltage on each transformer before switching them? Thanks for your help, Ephraim.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): If the bias transformers you are intending to use are genuine Acoustat bias transformers, then you should have no problems substituting 220-volt transformers for the original 110-volt transformers (or vice-versa). The only difference between the 110 and 220-volt versions is the rating of the primary: either version of the transformer will produce the correct secondary voltage when powered from the appropriate mains voltage.
If the transformers you intend to use are not Acoustat bias transformers, then you will need to measure the secondary voltage of the original transformer, in order to make sure that the new transformers produce the correct voltage.
An alternate way to change voltages is keep the original bias transformer in the interface, and use a small external step-up transformer (110 to 220 volts) or step-down transformer (220 to 110 volts). A single 50-watt transformer should be sufficient to power both speakers.
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Interfaces, HF resistor configuration?
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John Kwinn (2004-02-23): Dear Andy, Could you help me out on the configuration of the high frequency resistors as found in the Mark II modification (red label). Is the ”16 ohm” resistor(s) in series with the + line or is it parallel with the primary of the high frequency transformer.
Also how would I divide the two resistors: 2 and 14 ohms. 2 ohm resistor connected to the red wire of the transformer, the the capacitor, the the 14 ohm resistor connected to the black wire of the transfomer, as well as the (-) speaker terminal. I hope you can help me.
These speakers are very old, yet when I hear other speakers costing thousands more at the Chicago Audio Society monthly meetings I go away unimpressed and want to listen to the Acoustats. I attached a Bybee filter to the speaker terminal and I believe the sound is clearer. I use the Gilbert & Sullivan chorus as a test, If I could hear every word they sing distinctly, I feel that is an improvement. Thank you for your help. Joohn Kwinn, Chicago
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The ”C”, or ”Red Label” version of the MK-121 series interface changed the configuration of the input circuit to the high-frequency transformer. The new circuit reduces the possibility of HF transformer saturation, yielding reduced high frequency distortion. Note that this modification can be applied to any MK-121 interface, even if it does not have the Medallion Transformers.
The modification normally re-uses the existing, 6-ohm variable resistor (HF Balance Control). However, fixed resistors of suitable value can be substituted, if one doesn't mind losing the ability to vary the upper high frequency balance.
I've included some sketches of the ”before: and ”after” for this modification, with some details on the various ways resistors can be used, depending on which MK-121 you have:
Using original 6-ohm variable resistor
This method re-uses the original 6-ohm variable resistor to allow the HF balance to be varied. This original 6-ohm can be either the early-series rotary type, or the later slider type. A 10-ohm, 25-watt resistor is added to make up the 16-ohms.
Factory modified 16-ohm variable
This method was used by the factory to manufacture new ”C” versions, or to modify interfaces with the slider type of HF Balance Control. This used a single, special slider type resistor, with a variable section of 3-ohms, and a fixed section of 13-ohms. This was a custom made part, and is not available now.
Using Fixed Resistors
This method uses two individual fixed resistors, providing a fixed amount of HF balance. The upper resistor can vary from zero-ohms (maximum HF content), to as high as 6-ohms (minimum HF content). The lower resistor can vary from 10-ohms to 16-ohms, but should be set so that the total of the two resistors equals 16-ohms. Each resistor should be rated for at least 25-watts. Using 2 ohms and 14 ohms, as in your example, would be a good choice. This will yield a fixed, ”medium” setting for the HF balance.
The capacitor must also be changed in value, from 220-uF to 47-uF (or 50-uF). The factory modification used a non-polar electrolytic, but a polypropylene would be a better choice. (Interfaces that already have the ”C” mod would also benefit from upgrading this capacitor to polypropylene.)
Note that there are two other capacitors in parallel with the main capacitor. These may not be present on very early interfaces, but should be added as part of the modification. The 10-uF should be polypropylene, and the 0.01-uF should be polystyrene (if possible, or polypropylene). These two capacitors improve the very high frequency character.
It is gratifying, isn't it, that Acoustat products still hold up well against more recent offerings in the audiophile world? In this age of rapid technological obsolescence, it's pretty rare to remain thrilled by something you bought ten or twenty years ago. Thanks for your unsolicited testimonial - comments like that are what keep me answering questions. As long as people love their Acoustats, I'll do my best to keep them running!
Thanks, too, for asking about this specific subject. I've wanted to write about this topic, and now you've motivated me to do so! This response will form the basis for an expanded Technical Bulletin called ”C-Modification, MK-121 Series”, now available in the Modifications section.
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Interfaces, Medallion C
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Steve Morris (2004-02-23): I am having a problem with one of my Acoustat Medallion C Transformers. I had a channel go out in my amplifier. On replacing the amp, the transformer on the side with the amp problem now produces a very thin sound, lacking any bass. I have ruled out a panel problem, as the speaker sounds great when the other transformer is attached. Any help with a diagnosis of the problem or a lead on a replacement would be most appreciated! Thank you.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): From your description of the problem, it seems that you have a problem in the low frequency portion of the interface. There are three possible components: the 1-ohm resistor in series with the low-frequency transformer, the low frequency transformer itself, or the 50K-ohm resistors on the output of the low frequency transformer. But before you begin checking components, make sure the low-frequency tap is properly connected. The resistors are easy enough to check with an ohmmeter. Temporarily disconnect the low-frequency tap to get an accurate measurement of the 1-ohm resistor. This 1-ohm resistor is a 25-watt wire wound, and the 50K-ohm resistors (2 per interface) are 50-watt wire wounds.
The low frequency transformer (the largest of the three transformers) is tough to check by measurement. Your best bet is to exchange the transformer with the known good one in the other interface. Unfortunately, the transformer is the most likely failure: your failed amplifier channel may have damaged it (or vice-versa). You'll probably have to search the used market for a replacement. Since you have the Medallion interfaces, make sure you get a Medallion replacement transformer (identified by a black paper wrapper (not brown)).
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Interfaces, Medallion C verification
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Dane (2004-04-03): I'm trying to verify whether or not my interfaces include the Medallion
transformers. After sorting through all the various comments concerning the
Medallions on this site, I'm left with some conflicting information.
Here
are some of the gory details: I have a pair of 2+2 that I purchased new in early
'85. The interfaces are labeled MK121-B (Serial no. 1028525/6). I installed the
"C" mod from a factory-supplied field kit mid-1987. The invoice and instructions
for the field kit state "Field kit for MK121B to "C" update". The instructions
for the kit clearly indicate that they are specifically for interfaces with
Medallion transformers.
So, here's the dilemma: My interfaces did not
come from the factory with the "Medallion" labels (blue, red or otherwise)
However, the transformers DO have the black winding wrappers (but not the white
stripes on the output wires.) Did the 121B have Medallions? I understood that
the 121C was a factory label indicating both Medallion and "C" mods.
I'm
inclined to believe I've got Medallions....but. Is there another concrete way to
verify the Medallions: part numbers, serial numbers, etc.? Sorry for being
long-winded, but any help is greatly appreciated! -Dane
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Interfaces, Medallion mod
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Paul (2004-02-23): Also, there is something pertaining to Acoustat I've heard of here in Canada/USA called the ”Medallion” modification. I have no idea what this might be exactly. It appears to be a very popular modification to the Plus series of speakers. Any information you could dig up on this would be greatly appreciated by some Acoustat owners, and even those who may be contemplating the purchase of a pair.
There is also alleged to be a series of Acoustats that pre-dated the Plus series. I have never actually seen one and have not found any info on such a series.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Since you posted your question, a wealth of information concerning the Medallion Modification has been added to this site. See the other questions in this section, the Technical Bulletin ”Medallion Transformer Modification”, and the instructions for performing the modification (listed under Manuals). The Medallion transformers are not available, so the complete upgrade is no longer applicable. However, there are some minor elements of the upgrade that can still be done. These are detailed in some of the other answers to questions in this section.
A (nearly) complete history of all Acoustat models is now available on this site.
Roy A. Esposito (2004-08-20): Roy A. Esposito (soundslikenew@prodigy.net) wrote August 2004 :
Modifications and Upgrades are indeed available for Acoustat
Products, the following are just some of the programs that we currently offer (some are for a limited time, only.)
Please see our full information in the "Acoustat-Refurbishing" section of the Audio Circuit / ESL Circuit
--- The Original Factory Spec Medallion Upgrade Program
--- The C Plus Modification for MK-121 Interfaces/others.
--- Mono-Block conversions for Acoustat Trans-Nova Amplifiers (and other brands of solid-state or tube amplifiers ! )
--- Balanced Input (Gold XLR) Upgrade & other Mods for Acoustat Servo-Charge amps.
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Interfaces, Medallion transformer
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Paul Marino (2004-02-23): Do you have the specs for the three medallion transformers so they can me reproduced? Thank You!
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Sorry, I do not have specifications or drawings for the Medallion Transformers. Even if I did, the original spec sheets did not include much of the ”art” of transformer construction, as was worked out between Acoustat and it's transformer vendor. Also, it would be very expensive to reproduce a small quantity.
You might try Sounds Like New, mentioned elsewhere in this website. Or, try buying a used pair of speakers and using it for parts. I get the impression there are many sets of used parts available, as people have upgraded, modified, and otherwise changed the configuration of their speakers.
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Interfaces, MK-121 transfomer
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Mike Beck (2004-02-23): Hi Andy, I am looking for fabrication info for the MK-121 Hi and Lo frequency transformers: winding configuration, wire size, # layers/turns, etc.-or for any other transformers you may have drawings for. Many thanks, Mike Beck
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Sorry Mike, but I don't have any of that information. I wish I did. The only transformer drawings I have, of the Spectra series, are already posted on this site. Even that information is not complete enough to reproduce these complicated transformers.
The Medallion and Spectra transformers used interleaved windings, with very special consideration given to the insulation used between those interleavings. Transformer construction, even for relatively simple power transformers, is somewhat of a black art. Audio transformers, especially high voltage types as used in electrostats, are very difficult to design and build. The exact details of construction are often left up to the vendor's particular practices and preferences.
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Interfaces, MK-121, capacitors
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Ronald Hicks (2004-02-23): Hello Andy,any known source(s) for the 6KV coupling caps in the MK-121 interfaces. I know from the site they are a hard find and a check with Rockford Fosgate shows they have no more available. When my interfaces were upgraded in 1999, RF put in Sprague 430P's, but I haven't found a source that carries the Spragues in that high a voltage. I noticed one of my panels slightly distorting and upon opening the interface, discovered one of the caps had 'split open' and the other feeling 'soft', although it still works. Is there a possibility of damage to other components running it like this? What might have caused the damage since the other interface is fine? What about paralleling some 1K's or 1.6K's to get the required 6KV capacity?
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): If your 0.01-uF, 6000-volt capacitors are showing signs of physical failure, I would caution against using the speaker, particularly at high levels. Although the chances of symptomatic failure are low, a failed capacitor could damage an audio transformer or cause burning of adjacent components. When you replace these capacitors, I recommend that you replace all four (two per speaker). This will ensure consistency and balance between the two speakers. Capacitors cannot be paralleled for increased voltage rating: they must be connected in series (i.e. end-to-end) for the voltage ratings to add. In other words, you would need six 1000-volt capacitors in series to make a 6000-volt rating. Combining six capacitors could be a physical mounting problem, so a better solution would be to use four 1600-volt capacitors, which would yield a rating of 6400 volts.
When capacitors are connected in series, total capacitance CT is determined by the formula 1/CT = 1/C1 + 1/C2 + 1/C3 + 1/C4. . .where C1, C2, etc. are the values of the individual capacitors.
Using standard capacitor values, you can use two 0.047-uF and two 0.033-uF capacitors in series to achieve 0.01-uF. Digi-Key www.digikey.com has parts that should work okay (note that I have not personally evaluated these parts):
Panasonic Series ECWH, 1600-volt metallized polypropylene ECW-H16333JV 0.033-uF digikey #P10513-ND ECW-H16473JV 0.047-uF digikey #P10515-ND
These parts have radial lead cases and are 28 mm (1.1”) long, so you'll need to arrange them sideways across the board to fit in the available space. Connect them in series with short bits of buss wire, and glue them to the PC board with silicone glue. Cover any exposed connections with silicone.
So, one can combine capacitors to reach the desired value of 0.01-uF and 6000 volts, but there are space limitations and the concern of mounting the capacitors so that they cannot arc to other components. This all depends on the physical size of the capacitors you intend to use. In choosing an appropriate capacitor, one must consider more than capacitance and voltage ratings. Most important to sound quality is the type of dielectric. Metallized polypropylene or polypropylene-and-foil are the most desirable types for audio applications. Stay away from ceramic, polyester, paper or other types of dielectrics. These types have their advantages for some applications, but not for audio.
Case style is also important. High voltage capacitors come in many package styles, including screw mount, metal cans, etc, most of which are not suitable for this application. The original capacitors were epoxy wrap-and-fill, with axial wire leads. This case style, or the radial package like the Panasonics mentioned above, are probably the most cost-effective and easiest to mount.
I am conducting a web search for a source for 0.01-uF, 6000 -volt capacitors. If I get any positive results, I will post them under the ”Available Parts” section.
Dick Lanham (2004-07-13): I know where 0.01 microfarad 6000 volt capacitors can be bought. Please see the answer to my own inquiry about these in Capacitors, again, in this Question and Answer portion of the site. Thanks
Patrice CLIPEZ (2007-10-15): Hello, Capacitors of 0,01 mF at 6000 volts are available under WIMA brand. The serial is FKP1 at +- 5%. It's a polypropylen capacitor,in a radial configuration. I have just replaced the used genuine capacitors by the WIMA capacitors and the result seems to be perfect. These capacitors are not easy to find in distribution. For European people you can find it on a german website eshop.euras.com which offers interfaces in different languages. One entry address of the site is http://www.eshop55.sup.fr/. The part number to write in the research engine is #3364624. To have access to your own language you have to do a simulation of buying and select directly your country, the web address will be automatically redirected.Capacitors tend to loose their original value, more that ten years is a long life for a capacitor. I suggest to check the value of your capacitors with a multimeter(don't forget to open the circuit). 3 of my capacitors where only 6 nF and not 10, the fourth was at 2nF. Don't forget to stick the radial capacitor whith silicone and to isolate the connection wires with silicon too. The risk of arcing with other component exists. Good Luck.
Bob Fountain (2007-11-21): I just thought it might be helpful to know that the .01uF, 6kV capacitor is a part that my company, EFC/Wesco, can supply. We are a manufactrurer of film capacitors located in Waterbury, CT. I was recently contacted by an individual who purchased 8 caps from us to refurbish his Acoustat speakers. He directed me to this site. Anybody interested in these capacitors can contact me at fountain@filmcapacitors.com.
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Interfaces, MK-121, modification
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Marc Russo (2004-02-23): Dear Mr Szabo, aA question about modding the mk121 interface. Do I have to have a fixed 16ohm resistor or can I choose a 10ohm or 13ohm resistor if I want to vary the high freq content? What resistor gives me the most flat freq response for the mod? Marc Russo.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The best way to answer your question would be “none of the above”. Please see my “C-Modification, MK-121 Series”, located under “Modifications” for a complete description of the possible resistor configurations.
The total resistance must be 16-ohms. However, that 16-ohms is split-up into two parts, referred to as the “upper” and “lower” resistor in the instructions. There are three diagrams showing the possible combinations of resistors.
For a “flat” response, the combination would be approximately 2-ohms for the upper resistor, and 14-ohms for the lower resistor (total 16-ohms). However, due to differences in listening rooms, and your own personal taste, it is usually best to use a variable resistor to determine your own “best response”. If you have the original 6-ohm variable resistor, it is best to use that for the upper resistor, and a 10-ohm fixed resistor for the lower resistor (again, 16-ohms total).
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Interfaces, MK-121-2-A detaching panels
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Steven Hickok (2004-02-23): Where can I get info on Acoustat Mk 121-2A Speakers? Who owns Acoustat at this time?
I have removed the lower wood case and the speaker grill cloth. I intend to hang the speakers 8-10 “ out from the wall. I would like to mount the electrical components in a separate area about 10 feet from the speakers. I assume this is a high voltage /low current line and would use a 12 or 14 gauge solid wire to connect the speaker with its component. Will this be a problem? There will be a slight voltage drop but will it affect performance?
When I removed the speaker cloth I noticed around the hole were the connector wires run a charring and some charring of the wires(soft carbon) do these wires run hot? There is also some charring /black powder very faint on the wood frame surrounding the electrostatic plastic elements. Is this normal? The speakers sound fine.
What is the nominal power required to drive these babies? I am using a Klipsch 15 200 W sub offer for the bottom end rolling off at 6 DB per octave starting at 120 to 80 HZ. I can adjust the roll off point down to 40HZ. Currently I am driving the Acoustats with a 75 watt per channel amp. Thanks, Steven Hickok
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Rockford Corporation sold its Acoustat Division to an Italian company in the early 1990’s. That firm is reportedly still alive, but they have no apparent activity outside of Europe. For the purposes of obtaining information and/or service (at least outside Europe), Acoustat is effectively out-of-business. See the “History”section of this website for a more detailed timeline. Fortunately, this website is available to support the thousands of Acoustat owners who still enjoy their speakers. Also, qualified repair service is available. See “Refurbishing”for further details.
The model of your speaker is not MK-121-2A. Rather, that is the model number of the interface electronics (black box), which is common to several models. Alas, most Acoustats are not marked as to model number. Since you didn’t mention overall size, I cannot determine what model you have. However, the model number is not significant to the following discussion.
The black “stuff”you see inside the speaker is not heat-related. The speaker operates on very high voltages (up to 5000 volts). The electrostatic field around the wires and other components attracts fine particles of soot and dirt, yielding the black deposits. This is quite normal after many years of operation, and should cause no harm.
I cannot recommend separating the interface chassis from the panels, as you propose. Hanging the speakers from the ceiling is not a bad idea: it’s been done before. But I would recommend that you find a way to keep the interfaces in their normal position on the back of the speaker.
The problem with extending the wires is not a question of voltage drop, but rather of high-voltage safety. The thin (24 ga) wires connecting the interface to the panels have a special type of insulation rated for 10,000 volts. Ordinary wire, even heavy gauge, has insulation typically rated for only 600-1000 volts.
Even if you were to obtain suitable high-voltage wire, a long, exposed run of wires could still pose a shock hazard to pets, children, and unwary adults. (Likewise for the open sides of the interface chassis.) Acoustat went to great pains to ensure that all high-voltage points were inaccessible with the speaker fully assembled.
50-75 watts is the minimum recommended power to drive the Acoustats. However, with care, amplifiers as large as 250 watts can be used with beneficial results. These are inefficient speakers, and not easy to drive, so plenty of watts from a high-current amplifier will yield the best results. Naturally, the amount of power required will depend on your room size and musical taste.
Please write again if you have any further questions!
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Interfaces, MK-121-A Medallion 'C' Modificatio
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David Griffin (2004-02-23): Ref: Medallion MK-121-A 'C' Modifications: Circuit diagram Figure one (1): If the 6 ohm rheostat is replaced with a 16 ohm (vishey) rheostat and the 10 ohm resistor removed (as it will not be needed), Does a connection from the Black (-) binding post to Tab 3 on the rheostat need to be made. The confusion is because in the circuit diagram, there is a nodal connection between the Black (-) binding post and the rheostat.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): As I have stated elsewhere, I do not recommend that the entire 16 ohms be made up of a variable resistor. Not only will this give you far more high-frequency roll-off adjustment than you would ever want, it also could lead to fuse blowing or amplifier damage if the control is turned all the way down.
I agree that the schematic is confusing: it should not show the entire 16 ohms as variable. It should have shown only the top portion of the resistance as variable, with the bottom portion as fixed. Speakers built new with the ”Medallion C” circuit used a single 16-ohm resistor, but only a portion of it was variable. I think the split was 3 ohms variable, 13 ohms fixed (this was a custom part).
A far better approach is to make the 16 ohms from a combination of a variable 6-ohm rheostat, and a 10-ohm fixed resistor. This combination will give you plenty of adjustment range, without any danger of fuse blowing or amplifier damage. Note that these values are approximate: the total needs to be 15 or 16 ohms, with about one fourth to one third of the total being variable.
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Interfaces, MK-121-B, Medallion upgrade
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Berend Alberts (2004-02-23): I am writing to you from the Netherlands. Having been an audiophile music enthusiast for many years, the most faithful ”air coupling” end of the various combinations of hardware I use have always been the fine 2+2's. I bought them new after a visit to Acoustat and ”having been convinced” by Jim Strickland when visiting him in Ft Lauderdale in 1984. In truth, one just needs some time alone with them (the 2+2's I mean) and one's hooked.
I must have missed the medallion modification by a couple months only. Something I have regretted ever since reading the 1985 Absolute Sound review about the modification.
Please don't ask me why I decided to try and get the modification now. After all, the 2+2's have been a real joy for almost 19 years. And I have no plans to part with them. The interfaces are MK 121-B and have serial number 402201 and 402202 (220 - 240 volts). For your information I think they are best driven by an only slightly updated (and optimally adjusted) TNT 200 , serial number 402203.
I would like to get in touch with the firm that produced the medallion transformers for Acoustat. Obviously I would be very grateful if you would provide me with their name, address, telephone and email. If you could help me to a description of the full modification (including the last 'red', or 'C' step) I will feel really indebted to you.
Just a crazy thought. If they still have the parts, wouldn't Hafler (Rockford Fosgate) still honour my request for the medallion upgrade since I have all original documentation as well as the invoice? I understand that buying the modification from them was pretty expensive ($1900??!) but the upgrade (in case the original invoice could be provided) was done at a much more reasonable price. I wouldn't ask them to perform the upgrade. I would be content with the parts and instructions. Do you think that it would still make sense to try and contact them?
I really look forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Berend Alberts
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): I doubt that Rockford is still able to perform the Medallion Modification, or has the parts available for the do-it-yourselfer. They essentially washed their hands of Acoustat over ten years ago. However, there is always the possibility, so if you want to contact them, you can find their address in the Brand Information section of this site.
For the original manufacturer of the transformers, I have only a name: Southeastern Transformer, located near Miami, Florida, USA. I have no idea if they are still in business, or if they have any interest or capability to make these transformers. I do know that ordering only one set will be very expensive!
Another possibility is to contact Sounds Like New. (See ”Refurbishing” for contact information.) They repair Acoustat electronics and speaker interfaces, and may have the parts necessary. They do not sell parts, so you would need to send the interfaces to them for modification.
A final possibility would be to find a pair of already-modified interfaces on the used market. Such things are occasionally available.
Bottom line: attempting the Medallion Modification is likely impossible now, or at least very, very expensive. Good Luck, and don't wait so long next time!
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Interfaces, transformer frequency capabilities
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Ed Houston (2004-02-23): To start I have owned Acoustats for a long time and measured and modified the whole time. My new project is to build a single panel system (one right one left) and run a Velodyne HGS 10 as the lower octave or so. I have been reviewing the spec's and have not found the response of the transformers!!! How low can the 121 high Frequency trans play before satruation? How low can the 141 trans play? Any help here would be great.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The MK-141 transformer, as used in the Model One hybrid system, crosses over at approximately 150-175 Hz. It uses a 6-dB per octave slope for the transformer, and a 12-dB per octave slope on the woofer. This frequency should be considered the lower limit of the transformer. Attempting to crossover any lower could lead to transformer saturation. Additionally, a single Acoustat panel will not produce much useful bass below that point. The high frequency transformer from the MK-121 is not suitable for a hybrid system. There is not a specific crossover point between the low and high frequency transformers in the MK-121: there is a considerable overlap in their operation. I don't recall the exact range of frequencies, but I believe this overlap extends from the upper hundreds to low thousands of hertz. This is too high a frequency to crossover to a conventional woofer.
If you wish to build a single-panel hybrid system using Acoustat components, I would recommend using the MK-141 transformer, crossed over in a similar fashion to the Model One. The woofer system of the Model One was definitely its weak point, so utilizing a better woofer (or two) would offer improvement.
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Interfaces, transformer identification needed
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Bruce Weisberg (2004-02-23): I have a Acoustat transformer with the following part number: XP117 2009-100. Can you tell what model this came from? Thanks, Bruce
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The transformer you have, an Acoustat XP117, is a 117 VAC (110-120VAC) bias transformer for the MK-121 series of interfaces. This same transformer was used in the early Spectra series, before the ultrasonic power supply (with wall transformer) was introduced. Therefore, this transformer could be used in many different models.
For reference purposes, there was also an XP100 (for 100 VAC), and an XP240 (for 220-240 VAC). Also for reference, there is no such thing as a ”medallion” bias transformer: ”medallion” applied only to the audio transformers.
Very early Acoustat speakers used a higher voltage bias transformer with a voltage tripler. This proved to be less than perfectly reliable, so Acoustat switched to a lower voltage transformer with a voltage quintupler. This is the type you have.
The ”X” series of transformer part numbers was not used until the acquisition by the David Hafler Company. Therefore, your transformer was manufactured some time after 1987.
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Interfaces, transformers found
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Dave Milner (2004-02-23): have found someone sellling the transformer I need (the high voltage one) Not sure if he is a dealer or not.The problem is he wants $175.00 each and the min order is two transformers !!!! SO $350.00. Follows the E-mail I got concerning the transformers: Jeffrey Lee Pressman $175 each for the T-1 xfmr - minimum order two. Takes about 2-3 weeks. Jeffrey Lee Pressman jeffrey@telerama.comUSA +1 412 441-3942 I am looking into three ways to solve my problem. 1. Rebuilding the transformer myself. 2. Finding another way to generate the 5KV required by the amp. (external power supply, building one etc.) 3. Purchasing those expensive transformers. What is the best way to tackle this problem ?
Andy Pechenik (2004-02-23): J. Pressman has a contact with the oem supplier of Acoustat transformers. they are not thrilled due to the hassle of small production quantities but have been gracious enough to fill requests. This relationship sets the pricing and quantity requirements. I believe he is doing this service as a hobbiest and is not reaping any great reward from it.
Dave Milner (2004-02-23): I first emailed Fosgate and they said they do not respond to email directly. So I called them and they know nothing about Acoustat speakers. (guess all those employees moved off it's been so long ago??) I guess if I kept calling someone would know of them.
Just yesterday I started taking the transformer apart. It's filled with some resin, amber clear colored. Fairly rigid. It's making the job tough. Will report more later.
Steve Crowshaw (2004-03-07): There are some previously "unavailable" parts (including transformers) currently available on Ebay (Feb.-Mar. 04). The sellers title is "Soundvalves". I did a little research and found that the original manufacturer of the medallion transformers (Southeastern Transformer) was aquired by Galaxy Transformer. I contacted them regarding Acoustat medallion transformers, and received the following response:
Steve, thank you for your inquiry. We acquired Southeastern in 1998 and still operate today out of our plant in Southern New Jersey. We have all the prints and continue to make product for individuals. If you are interested in purchasing units. please contact us at the number below. If I am not in, Ken Burns can certainly assist. you. Thanks for your interest. -- Best regards, James R. Curry, Galaxy transformers.
Name: Galaxy transformers (James R. Curry) E-mail: Homepage: http://www.galaxytransformers.com/ Tel: +1 856-753-4546
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Low supply voltage
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fitzroy wellington (2008-09-16): I own a pair of acoustat 8s that i acquired from a friend. the left half of one of the speakers does not play very loudly simply because the supply to the panels from the 500megohm resistor drops down to 800 or 900v once the panel wires (HV supply and audio), are connected. please note that on its own the interface produces a robust 4.8kv; CAN YOU HELP? Thanks.
Andy Szabo (2008-09-16): That's a fairly unusual problem! Since you have a total of four interfaces with your Model 8's, I would suggest you try one of the other interfaces on that panel set (they are interchangeable). If it works ok with another interface, then you know the problem is with the original interface. If the problem exists no matter which interface you use, then the problem is in the panels.
If you determine the problem is in the interface, and since it produces proper voltage unloaded, my first suspicion would be the 500-megohm resistor. It may have failed to a much higher value, or opened entirely. I've seen these same resistors for sale on eBay, so finding a replacement should not be too difficult. Although less likely, you could have a failed capacitor in the voltage multiplier.
If the problem is in the panels, I have much less advice to offer, since that would be a virtually unheard-of problem. But, there is a first time for everything! My first suspicion would be a break or a short circuit in the connecting wires. This can only be determined by removing the grille sock and doing a physical inspection of the wires.
I can't really imagine a scenario of how the panel itself could pull-down the bias voltage, unless some physical, conductive object was lodged in between the diaphragm and the stator grids, and was actually cutting through the wire insulation of the grid. Pretty unlikely!
So, my best guess would be a problem with the interface. Please do write again if you need further advice. And congratulations on owning a very rare, top-of-the-line Acoustat Model Eight. I have no idea how many Model 8's were produced, but my guess would be in the range of only 25 pairs, maybe even less!
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MK 121 Interface
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Bill Hird (2005-11-15): Hello Acoustat People,
Why do some people claim that their amps have trouble driving the Acoustats with the MK121 interface. I thought that the whole reason for the design of this interface was to give the driving amplifier a steady 4-6 ohm load across the full audio spectrum . I believe that this was one of Mr. Strickland's goals in designing the dual-transformer concept.
What I don't fully understand is the "voltage sensitivity curve" that varies by a factor of 10-1 over the audio bandwidth. This was mentioned in the white paper put out by Acoustat on the design of the MK121. I can understand the 1000-1 impedence variation due to the fact that the speaker is a capacitive load but what causes the 10-1 "voltage sensitivity mismatch" ? Thank you all.
Bill
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MK121-A
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BOB NACE (2007-05-26): Wanting to upgrade to medallion transformers will 141 interfaces interchange with MK-121-A model 3 speakers ??
Andy Szabo (2007-05-27): Sorry, no. The MK-141 is designed for limited range speakers only, where a conventional woofer carries the bottom end. The MK-121 series is for full range speakers that cover the entire audio range with ESL's.
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Mk141C transformer
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Nick Gouras (2007-05-21): Hi all. Does someone know if it's possible to replace a Mk 131 interface transformer (non medallion), as used in the Model 3MH, with a Mk141C transformer (medallion I think)? I don't know which model speaker the Mk 141C interface was used with, but suspect it might be possible? If so, would it be advantageous to also replace any other values in the MK 131 interface? Thanks in advance, Cheers, Nick
Andy Szabo (2007-05-22): I don't see a problem with substituting an MK-141 transformer for an MK-131, but I'm not sure there would be a huge improvement, unless it was to take advantage of the improved Medallion technology.
Normally, I wouldn't suggest you go out of your way to make such a change, unless there was something wrong with your MK-131, and parts for an MK-141 is all that you could find.
Nick Gouras (2007-05-23): Thanks very much Andy. I was thinking of doing this purely from the point of view as a sonic upgrade. My previous experience with the 2+2 versus 2+2 with Medallion and C upgrade made me realise the improvement was worthwhile, but I don't know if there is much difference between the MK141C improved transformer and the original Mk131 transformer. I do have a schematic for all of these interfaces and there are some other component differences too from memory. My intention is to use the 3MH panels/interface and use a really good upper bass/bass section which should improve on the original woofer box, so I'd like to get as much as I can out of the panels sonically. Must admit they do sound very musical as is though. I did notice the 2+2 with Medallion upgrade did sound more neutral and less warm than the original, but has slightly better resolution and dynamic contrasts, IMO. Cheers, Nick
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Moving to europe
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Stephen Casmier (2007-04-28): my father gave me a pair of acoustats that he bought maybe 20 years ago. they've been in storage. are they worth my bringing to europe with me for a year. what do i need to do to make sure they are in working order?
Andy Szabo (2007-04-29): The simple answer is to hook them up and try them! No sense lugging a pair on non-working speakers across the ocean. Acoustats are quite reliable and long-lived, so there is a very good chance they'll be fine. Once you become accustomed to their sound quality, it'll be hard to live with anything else.
Since an electrostatic speaker like the Acoustat needs to be plugged in to a source of AC power, you'll need a step-down transformer so you can operate the 120-volt speakers on Europe's 220/240 system. But no doubt you've already considered that since I'm sure you will be taking other electrical devices with you. The AC power requirements of the speakers are minimal - no more than 20-watts for the pair.
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One sided audio
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Tim Johns (2007-11-20): I found a pair of spectra 1100's at a garage sale for $50 what a bargain!Been looking online for a year. Anyway,tanks to Soundvalves in Columbus, I got them up and running but sound only seems to be coming from one side of each speaker.Woofers work fine.I'm not familiar with Acoustats sound so I wondered if tis was normal.
Andy Szabo (2007-11-21): Congratulations on finding such a bargain! Acoustat speakers maintain their performance for many years, so finding a pair for only fifty bucks is great: they are worth many times that!
Your observation of "sound coming from only one side of the panel" is a common misconception with Acoustat's Spectra Series. What you are hearing is the half of the panel that is producing highs and mids, with the other half producing mids only. Because you hear the highs coming from only half the speaker, it 'fools the ear' into thinking that is the only area producing sound.
If your speakers sound well balanced, frequency-wise, then you can rest assured that all of the panel area is operating as intended.
The panels are arranged in a left-right mirror-image pair, so it is important that you have them on the correct side to preserve good stereo imaging. For the hybrid Spectra 11 and 1100, the highs should be coming from the outer edge of each speaker, when correctly arranged. That is, from the left side of the left speaker, and from the right side of the right speaker. (Note for the larger full range Spectra models, the opposite is true.)
Yann Zeeuwe (2007-12-09): Dear Andy,
This is a test answer to your question. If you receive an email all went well.
Please send an email to our regular email address (webamster@audiocircuit.com) to confirm if this works.
Thank you,
Friendly greetings,
Yann zeeuwe
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Only one speaker working.
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Liam (2008-11-13): Recently I noticed an electrical frying smell (Ozone?_) coming from both of my Spectra 11 speakers are a long spell of playing them at high volume.
Both speaker were still playing OK and sounding as brilliant as normal.
I turned them off and had a look in side both interfaces. Nothing appears to be burnt off the circuit board, etc.
However on turning them back on only one speaker is now operating. No sound is coming out of the flat panel on one speaker (the Bass speaker is still working).
Also the 12 v power pack is gets hot on the faulty speaker.
I love these speakers and I am keen to repair them.
Long in the distant past I studied electronics and now definitely suffer from a little knowledge is dangerous/embarrassing.
Can anyone suggest the most likely cause of the problem and a fault analyses procedure?
Liam (2008-11-14): Hmmm...To isolate the problem I swapped over the interfaces...and guess what now both speakers are working and neither power supply is getting hot.
I guess that I may have something like an intermittent soldering joint.
Anyway I will leave well enough alone for the moment on the theory of if it isn't broke don't fix it
Andy Szabo (2008-11-16): My guess would be that the plug for your wall transformer was not fully inserted into the jack. This could cause a short circuit, causing the transformer to get hot, and preventing the ESL portion from working.
Read my story "Ted Nugent vs Spectra 1100" in the 1100 section. Although you have the Spectra 11's, they are similar enough when driven a bit too hard!
Liam (2008-11-16): Thank you very much Andy.
I traced the problem to a faulty power supply plug. Interesting story. The original jacks on my power supply/speakers started causing problems in the first couple of weeks of ownership way back in the early 90's. The local dealer swapped out the original 15V power packs for new 12V power packs ( I checked the good on and they were 12 volts with no load) he sourced locally with different two prongs pin where they insert into the speaker. (I don't have a clue what these plugs are called). When he soldered the new plugs on he stripped back too much insulation inside the plug and I discovered this had shorted inside the plug and yesterday afternoon this shorted enough to blow the power pack. I checked I have the 470 ohm resistor and I have changed out both power packs with 15V units.
Interestingly this has significantly lifted the volume coming from the panels and improved the tonal balance of the speakers as a result. (I've been missing this for 18 years!)
The burning smell was from the circuit board getting fried under the 10 ohm 25 watt high pass resistors. I have temporarily spaced these 1bout 15 mm off the board until I can get some metal bodied replacements to do your recommended mod.
Reading this site has got me inspired to try and source a better 8 inch driver and build replacement bottom cabinets out of MDF.
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Panels, adhesive for wires
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Jack Sutton (2004-02-23): Hello Andy. What sort of adhesive was used on the Acoustat esl's to bond the wires to the stator frame assembly and what was the technique used for applying it? Jack Sutton.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Thanks for asking this question, as it has motivated me to finish work on my Acoustat Factory - Photo Tour. This is a series of photos taken at the Acoustat factory, showing the construction of the panels and finished speaker. The ”glue” is styrene pellets dissolved in methylene chloride (a nasty solvent) to yield a thick syrup-like liquid. This glue was applied by an automated machine. See the photos for how this was done!
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Panels, exchanging panels
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Brian Goodman (2004-02-23): Andy, are the panels from the Spectra series interchangeable with older panels from the Model 1+1, 2+2 etc series? Thanks, Brian Goodman
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The stators on all Acoustat panels are formed by a wire grid on either side of the diaphragm. On pre-Spectra panels, each grid is continuous, with a wire lead connected to each end of the grid. Therefore, each panel has five wires: one for the bias, two white wires for the front grid, and two blue wires for the rear grid. The front pair and rear pair of wires are tied together and connected to their respective ”front” and ”rear” audio drive signals. (Note: very early Acoustat panels had only three wires: one bias wire, one front stator wire, and one rear stator wire. The connections were the same)
Spectra panels are exactly the same construction, except that the stator grid is split down the middle, allowing each half of the panel to be driven by different signals. The panel still has only five wires, but the connections are different. One wire is for the bias, one for the front right stator, one for the front left stator, one for the rear right stator, and one for the rear left stator. The color-coding on the stator wires will vary, depending on where in the speaker that panel is used.
A pre-Spectra speaker (1+1, 2+2, 3, etc.) can use either the original panel type or a Spectra panel. To use a Spectra panel in a pre-Spectra speaker, merely tie together the front pair of wires and the rear pair of wires. The front pair is connected to the ”white” drive terminal, and the rear pair is connected to the ”blue” drive terminal. The fact that the stator is split will make no difference.
A Spectra speaker, however, must use a Spectra panel due to the requirement for split stators.
Keep in mind that there is no inherent advantage (except as noted below) in replacing your pre-Spectra panels with Spectra panels. This should be done only if you have a damaged panel, and the only replacement you can find is a Spectra panel. Even then, it is necessary to replace only the damaged panel. The two types of panels are compatible and should work fine together.
Depending on vintage, a Spectra panel could have a small advantage over a non-Spectra panel. In the mid-eighties, Acoustat began using a new conductive coating. The result was a speaker that could play louder without making crackling noises, especially on bass notes. Panels with improved coating can be identified by a yellow bias wire with a red stripe. All previous bias wires were either solid red or white with a red stripe. This improvement was introduced before Spectra, so some pre-Spectra models were also built with the improved coating.
The practical difference between the old and new coating is most noticeable on the smaller models like the 1+1, where the smaller total area demands more work from each individual panel. Even with this potential advantage, I would hardly recommend that anyone change panels for only that reason. I mention this only to give you a more complete picture of the evolution of Acoustat's panels.
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Panels, glue for wires
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Barry McClune (2004-02-23): Does anyone know the source of the glue/epoxy/solvant Acoustat used to bind the PVC coated wire to the plastic ”egg crate” material used in their stator grids ? I've tried slow curing epoxy with only limited success. Thank you, Barry McClune.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Acoustat's panel ”glue” was a homemade compound consisting of clear styrene pellets dissolved in methylene chloride (see note below). This glue works well because the solvent melts into both the plastic ”egg crate” and the PVC wires. Once the solvent evaporates, the remaining styrene makes a firm mechanical bond.
I don't remember the exact formula. Enough of the pellets need to be dissolved in the solvent to make a thick, syrupy consistency. This takes overnight for all of the pellets to dissolve.
The main problem of making this glue yourself, is obtaining the raw materials in small quantities. Acoustat bought methylene chloride in 55-gallon drums, and the styrene pellets in 50-pound bags. A local plastics molder may be willing to sell you a few pounds of the pellets. I'm sure the methylene chloride can be bought in gallon containers, but I don't know where. Many paint strippers contain largely methylene chloride, but these products will also contain other chemicals that would likely interfere with this application.
Note: Methylene Chloride (CH2Cl2 ), also known as dichloromethane, is a nasty solvent. It can be absorbed through the skin, so use neoprene gloves to protect your hands, and wear eye protection. The fumes are also hazardous, so use plenty of ventilation. Keep both the solvent and glue in tightly sealed containers. Keep in mind that the solvent will attack most plastic containers.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Thanks for the tip on removing the brass trim, and the grille cloth spot-removing advice. Acoustat used to recommend a spot-remover product called K2R (also advertised on late-night TV), but I'm not sure if it is still available.
The ”brass” on the sides of the Spectra XX00 Series is actually a steel strip, brass plated with a clear lacquer finish. The original material was supplied, cut to size, by American Nickeloid. However, I seem to remember a 500-pound minimum order, so this is not a practical source for the consumer. Ordinary polished brass would be okay for a replacement, but I'm not sure where you could get a piece long enough without having to buy a large sheet. Try some of your local sheet metal distributors.
The brass strips were fastened to the wood with 3M type-VHB foam-backed adhesive, a very strong adhesive indeed. This was applied at the Acoustat factory. VHB might be hard to get at the consumer level, but there are a variety of foam adhesive tapes available on the retail market.
Yes, air tools were used for nailing of the wood trim and stapling of the grille cloth. If necessary, ordinary brads or screws could be used for reattachment of the trim, and a hand-operated heavy-duty stapler could be used for grille cloth attachment.
If the finish on the wood trim becomes damaged, it can be restored. For natural wood finishes, a light sanding will remove most surface damage, and then it can be recoated with Watco Danish Oil Finish (oak). For black painted trim, all of the trim pieces (and maybe the bases, too) will have to be repainted, since it is unlikely you'll be able to find an exact match.
See my Technical Bulletin, Grille Cloth Removal, Cleaning and Replacement, for further information.
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Panels, membrane cleaning
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Lou (2004-02-23): Hello Andy, This is a general question, in that it is not Acoustat specific. Micro-dust collects on panels, smoke can help speed along the process. Once the panels are loaded, they are slowed down and hindered. Can you recommend a cleaner for ridding my panels of said micro-dust? Thanks, Lou
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): You are asking a generalized question about cleaning electrostats, but due to the wide variety of panel construction methods and materials, I'm not sure a general answer is possible. So, I will limit my answer to cleaning Acoustat panels.
Under normal conditions, with grille cloth intact, an Acoustat speaker should not require internal cleaning. If it has been operated without the grille cloth for an extended period, or in a particularly dirty environment, then cleaning might be required.
The safest method of cleaning dust from an Acoustat panel is to use compressed air. The panel should be fully discharged beforehand. The Mylar diaphragm is remarkably rugged, but be careful not to concentrate a high-pressure blast too close to the panel, or the Mylar could be torn. A torn diaphragm can not be repaired. Blow the dust off both sides of the panel.
If a sooty or smoky residue remains, it is possible to wash the panel in warm water and very dilute, mild detergent. A bath tub works well for this. Of course, the panels must be un-wired and removed from the frame. The felt pads must be carefully pried off the rear of the panel, and re-attached with contact adhesive after the panel is completely dry. This is a major undertaking and should be attempted only if absolutely necessary.
A point of caution: be sure to rinse the panel very thoroughly, and dry for several days before re-energizing. Residue from the detergent can actually leave a conductive film on the panel, and affect the speaker's operation. In fact, Jim Strickland loved to tell the story of his early development efforts on conductive coatings, when he actually tried (with some success). . .Prell Shampoo!
In conclusion, let me stress two points:
1. The above procedures are for Acoustat panels only. Other brands may be damaged even by the compressed air method, if the diaphragm is not as rugged, or if the conductive material is the rubbed-on type. I suspect none of the other brands can be safely washed.
2. Under normal conditions, you should probably never need to clean your Acoustat panels. These procedures should be used only as a last resort, if the panels are extremely dirty and exhibiting a loss of performance.
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Panels, membranes, conductive coating and spacing
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Andrew Tomlinson (2004-02-23): Hello Andy. What did Acoustat use for the conductive coating on the mylar film? What is the stator to diaphgram spacing. Thanks in advance.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The conductive coating was a proprietary formulation developed by a chemist under contract to Acoustat. I don't have the formula, and it probably remains the intellectual property of whoever owns Acoustat today. I do know it contained carbon black, several solvents, and dissolved plastics. The solvents and plastics helped the coating bond to the mylar diaphragm, and the carbon black was ground to yield a specific resistivity.
Incidentally, Acoustat's coating was re-formulated in the late 1980's to have a higher resistivity, and thereby operate closer to the ideal ”constant charge”. This allowed the speaker to produce higher dynamic peaks without ”crackling”, and eliminated the random discharges sometimes observed in high humidity conditions. Panels made with the ”new” coating have a bias wire that is yellow with a red stripe. Older panels had either a solid red or white/red striped bias wire. The new coating did not change the sonic character of the speaker, but did considerably increase its dynamic cabability, most noticeably on the smaller models. All Spectra models were produced with this new coating, as well as the very last of the predecessor models.
The diaphragm-to-wire spacing for Acoustat was about 2.5 mm.
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Panels, popping panels
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John (2004-02-23): I need help in answering the following: I sold three working panels and shipped via USPostal. I had them hooked up and working prior to shipping. Bubble wrapped them extensivly, double boxed. Now two out of the three claim to have a faint popping noise every few seconds. Any ideas? Could it be his interfaces in combination with older panels? John
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): See my Technical Bulletin ”Popping Panels”. The methods described there will likely solve your problem. It is unlikely that the combination of the interface with these panels is causing the problem. This is almost certainly a problem within the panels themselves.
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Popping Pannel
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BC (2009-09-12): The upper left panel of one of my 2+2's is making a light pop about every 30 seconds. I assume that is arcing.
I have switched interface boxes and the popping did not move. I took the cloth off and cleaned the panel twice with vacuum and once with a can of compressed air. I also found a place were the grid wires were unglued from the grill. I glued them back with epoxy. None of this seemed to change the problem. The mylar itself looks to be in very good shape. No obvious signs of arcing in the conductive area or around the edges. It also seems quite clean now. The only thing I have not done is to remove the single panel and "wash" it.
I have read that sometimes the insulation on the grid wires can break down and develop holes in the insulation. And that if that happens, there is no fix.
Any comments?
Andy Szabo (2009-09-15): Sorry to hear of your popping panel problem. This is a somewhat common problem, especially for the older panels with the lower-resistance coating on the Mylar. The newer coating (identified by a red spiral stripe on the bias wire) is much less susceptible to popping.
It may take several attempts with the vacuum and/or compressed air to dislodge the bit of dirt that is most likely causing your problem. Be sure that the speaker is fully discharged (unplugged overnight) before attempting to clean the panel. Otherwise,the electrostatic force may hold the dirt in place.
You may also have some success with lightly banging the panel with your open hand to dislodge the offending particle. Rarely, if ever, is washing required, but it is possible using a very mild detergent and a thorough rinsing.
The felt pads on the rear of the panel may be interfering with removal of the offending particle. The pads can be easily peeled off, and then reapplied with 3M brand 77 spray adhesive. Spray a generous coating of the glue on the felt, wait for it to tack-up, and then press the felt back into place. If you elect to wash the panel, the felt pads should be removed first.
In my 23+ years of experience with Acoustat, involving speakers up to 30 years old, I have never heard of the insulation failing on the grid wires. Comments you may have read probably referred to another brand, or may refer to an isolated case with an original manufacturing defect in the wire. That said, nothing lasts forever, and someday the thousands of Acoustats out there will begin to fail, but so far I have yet to hear of any widespread degradation over time. And even when that does eventually happen, I would expect to hear first about problems with models much older than yours.
Do know that the popping sound is not causing any further damage to your speakers. The arc you hear is a very minor, localized discharge that does not have enough energy to do any damage. It is just annoying.
Do write again if you have further questions. And do keep up the faith - it's not time to give up on your Acoustats just yet!
BC (2009-09-17): Andy, Thank for the reply and the assurance that there is probably not an insulation breakdown. I'll give the panels another cleaning or two. I will let it discharge a bit more first. I will admit to being impatient and only powering off for a couple of hours before my prior cleanings.
Is there a safe way to discharge the panels, like connecting a resistor across the poles?
Andy Szabo (2009-09-17): There is an easy way to quickly discharge the panel. After disconnecting power, pull-out the center red plug (holding it by the insulated portion) on the interface's printed circuit board, and touch the metal end of the plug to either the white or blue thumscrew. You will see a spark and hear a tick from the panel. Repeat this several times over a few minutes. This will remove the majority of charge from the panel. As a precaution, make sure that no other part of your body is touching any metal or other components of the interface chassis while doing this. The shock hazard is not dangerous, but it will make you mad at me for suggesting the procedure!
However, I would still recommend you wait at least several hours before cleaning the panel. You do want to make sure that all electrostatic force is removed from the panel so that your cleaning efforts are most effective.
BC (2009-09-23): It was a dark and foggy night... Perfect for arcing electrostats! And so it was last night. But that is getting a bit ahead of things.
Last weekend, I pulled the sock half way down, exposing my popping panel and gave it a very thorough cleaning front and back with two cans of compressed air. A couple of interesting things:
1) About 3 or 4 small pieces of stator "glue" came off with the compressed air. I made sure that I got those pieces out. It did not affect the stability of the stator wires, which are solid everywhere.
2) When shining a light through the panel, the top 4" of the conductive area seems to be breaking up, with light shining through many very tiny cracks - similar to the way old paint cracks up.
After the cleaning, I plugged them back in, and... same thing. The popping is the same as before. Since in all the cleanings, the popping has not changed, I am beginning to suspect something other than contamination. I also tried switching the interface boxes and that did not change things.
So, then last night was very foggy (high humidity) and dark. I stayed up to listen and watch for arcing.
To my surprise, I heard multiple panels arcing. It seemed to be at least two panels on one side and probably two panels on the other side. Overall it was about equal left and right. The original suspect panel popped the loudest by a few db, but was less than 50% of the pops. The humidity may have brought out other arcs.
I could see some of the arcs as very dim flashes of light. The arc flashing on the original suspect panel was in various places on the panel, Often in the left third and in the middle third vertically. It did not appear to be at the edge.
There is also a faint 60hz or 120hz hum from both speakers when not connected to and input source. It is audible from within 3 feet, but not from 10 feet away. This hum goes away when an input source is connected. I assum that this is just leakage from the A/C line source into the floating audio circuit.
I am now wondering if I might have a bias voltage that is a touch too high given the normal humidity of my environment (San Diego). Is this likely? Could it be caused by age? The circuity looks to be in good shape visually, with only the high freq variable resistor showing some oxidation on exposed wire turns. Could the reduced conductive area caused by the small amount of cracking up cause a concentration of higher charge on the rest of the panel?
Is there a way to test these theories? Can I measure the bias voltage? I have a DVM, but it is only rated to 1KV. Can I adjust the bias, perhaps by changing the 500MOhm resistor?
BTW, I have a pair of old SoundLab R1's that used to arc. This was easily solved with their externally variable bias voltage. (Yes, I love the sound of electrostatics!)
Thanks Andy for reading this and for any advise you can provide. I would be pleased to exchange direct email or talk on the phone if that would be more convenient for you.
Cheers. -Brad
Andy Szabo (2009-09-24): It is not entirely unheard of for small flakes of plastic or glue to be loose inside the panel. Your use of compressed air is a good idea, but I would also strongly recommend vacuuming the panel. Since these particles are non-conductive, they are probably not the source of your trouble. Such particles can cause extraneous rattles that correspond to certain musical signals, but that is a mechanical problem, not an electrical one.
There can be voids in the conductive coating that may look like pinholes, streaks, or even cracks. The coating was applied by brush, so it not uncommon to see some voids. So far, I have heard no reports of failure of the conductive coating. If somehow your coating has degraded to the point of actually disconnecting certain areas from the power supply, it could possibly cause a charge concentration that would increase the likelhood of arcing. But I think that is highly unlikely.
Certainly, conditions of high humidity will increase any likelihood of arcing. Generally speaking, Acoustats are pretty humidity-resistant (remember, they were developed in south Florida). But if you have an arcing problem, it is normal for it to get worse in high humidity.
Your speakers do not feature an adjustable bias voltage (only Acoustat's Spectra series featured adjustable bias). Changing the value of the 500-mohm resistor would not change the bias voltage. It is unlikley that a failure of the power supply could cause a higher than normal bias voltage. But, if you want to check the bias voltage, several methods exist for checking the voltage, including using a normal DVM. See my Technical Bulletin on the ultrasonic bias supplies. Although the bulletin is aimed at the adjustable-bias models, the methods for measuring bias voltage is the same.
The only way to reduce the bias voltage would be to hook up the AC power to a variable source. The bias voltage is proportional to the AC input voltage. Don't use a regular light dimmer: you'll need a variable auto-transformer (aka Variac) Keep in mind that reducing the bias voltage will also reduce the efficiency of the speaker.
The hum you hear from the speaker with no input is a new one on me. But, your theory sounds plausible that the audio transformers could be picking up a hum field from the bias transformer. Connecting the amplifier effectively shorts-out the generated field, and the speaker goes quiet.
I do realize I'm not helping much with your actual problem, despite the lengthy discussion (which I don't mind at all). Is there a heavy smoker in your home, or frequent use of a fireplace, oil lamps, or candles? There has been evidence that smoke or soot can deposit a residue on the panel, which could compromise the insulation. It is possible to wash the panels in mild soap and water, but obviously that is a last-resort measure, since it involves removing the panels from the frame, and the felt from the panels.
At this point my best recommendation if to pull the grille sock down to the bottom, and thoroughly vacuum both sides of each panel.
Keep writing - I am dedicated to keeping as many Acoustats producing music for as long as possible!
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Purchasing 150K 5W Resistor for MK-2123
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Bob (2007-03-09): Hello, where can I purchase the 150k 5W resistor for the MK-2123 interface? There two of them, one between the blue and yellow wires and one between white and yellow wires. Thanks.
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Report of crossing the species
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Wanchai (2008-06-30): Hi Andy ,This is my report after getting your last time answer for using Acoustat panels with Soundlab interfaces:
1.I use steel frame with two steel pipes as column with compacted glass wool in the pipe for 6 panels of 9" and spikes at the bottom pipe support. (they look like Soundlab U1 but higher)
The panels are angled 6 degree to each adjacent panels as your recommend.I provide 2 mm. rubber sheet between panels and steel frame.
2.I put the stepdown to 24 Vac transformer before the Soundlab bias transformer to get the proper supply voltage for the Acoustat panels.
These are the results:
1.The audio transformers of the Soundlab M3 can handle the 6 panels capacitance load without problem.
2.The Acoustat panels are the most durable stat panel in the world. Older than 20 years still work well and reparable.
3.The Acoustat panels are the most intelligent stat panel in the world.I use them for the substition for the original panels of Soundlab M3 and Final 0.4 without any side effect.
4.The sound quality of 3+3 on the steel frame with the Soundlab interfaces is superb .Bass reaches 20 Hz at -3 DB (set at -3 dB for the bass at the Soundlab interface to the best tonal balance in my room ). High is second to my Apogee DIVA only but I can add ribbon super tweeter of Townshend which can add the highest harmonic range. Mid is the best as the electrostatic trade mark.
5. The image and soundstage are improved by the steel frame with spikes.The size of image is not magnified to larger than the real life.(big Soundlab may have this problem) The singer stands on the floor not the ceiling even the panels are nearly 8 feet high.The piano is not large as the room but exists at the recording position.
I hope this report would be useful for the Acoustat Lovers and Owners.
Andy Szabo (2008-06-30): Thanks for the report on your project - it sounds like it was fun to build, and the results well worth the effort.
Yes, the Acoustat ESL panel is very rugged and long-lived, and can be expected to operate as originally intended for many years. Quite a few of Acoustat's original speakers (in original form or otherwise re-configured) are still providing enjoyment, often to second, third, or even fourth owners. One only needs to watch the auctions on eBay to see that the speakers are still quite popular and retain their value well, despite being out of production anywhere from 18 to 30 years ago!
It is interesting to observe that the eight-foot models tend not to produce a 'larger-than-life' image, despite their immense height. And yet, on some recordings, I have noted a distinct vertical positioning of certain instuments or voices. How that works has always been a mystery to me, given the speaker's equal production of all frequencies from top-to-bottom!
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Resistor 500 Mohm for MK-141C
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Andreas Blum (2007-07-20): After searching this site i came across the adress of newark.com with its german contact Farnell.
They provide 500 Mohm resistors.Here is my Question:
will the 500 MOhm, 5W, 20000V thick film resistor suite as refitting for the damaged 500 Mohm resistor in the MK-141c.
Any help is welcome. Sincerely, Andreas Blum
Andy Szabo (2007-07-27): The resistor you describe should be fine as long as it physically fits - some high voltage resistors are huge. Just make sure it has plenty of room around it, without touching any of the other parts on the board. The resistor does not get hot in operation, but should have plenty of space to prevent any possibility of high voltage arcing to other components.
The exact value of this resistor is not critical: 500 M-ohm is optimum, but it could be as low as a few hundred M-ohms. Both speakers in a pair should have the same value.
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Selling working Acoustat MK-121-C speakers
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Jean Cimino (2007-05-04): I recently inherited a working pair of acoustat mk-121-c loudspeakers from a relative's estate. They are way too much speaker for me and would like to sell them to someone who would enjoy the
The speakers work and sound great without any tracible distortion, etc. The frame paint has alot of chips, knicks, etc.a new paint job could take care of that. Add two new grill cloths/frames and you have yourself some really great speakers. They would also make a good 'refurbish' project or used for parts too.
Here's the info....
Acoustat mk-121-c electrostatic loudspeakers-i think they are 1+1's, but not sure.powered by an Acoustat 'David Hefler' medallion transformer located at the base of the speaker.
Height: 94"
Width: 12"
Depth: 3.5"
Frame: steel painted with gray/black speckled
paint.
They both work and sound great despite missing the grill cloths.
I live in Olympia, WA and don't have the means to ship or deliver them so the buyer would have to come pick them up. I have photos and would be happy to send them to you , etc.
I'm stereo-challenged, so any input, suggestions on selling them would be greatly appreciated. I also would like to know how much did they cost new and how much should i sell them for in today's market.
Thank you very much and I've learned a lot through this site. Great job, great site!
Jean Cimino
Andy Szabo (2007-05-06): From the dimensions given, I would say these are Acoustat Mopdel 1+1's. However, in describing the frame as 'painted steel' it sounds as though the original frame has been replaced. The original frame was unpainted wood (medium density fiberboard or MDF, to be exact), covered in grille cloth.
If these have been modified, it makes it harder to estimate their value. Some people may shy away from such customization, but if done neatly, it shouldn't really detract much from their resale value. eBay is a good place to sell Acoustats - at least several pairs appear each month, with many of them selling. Since they are difficult to ship, most sellers specify 'local pick-up only'.
I might suggest you start the bidding around $100 to intially attract buyers, but keep a reserve price at around $500 to make sure you get at least a fair price. For the right buyer, they could go as high as $1000.
Good Luck with your sale!
Jean Cimino (2007-05-09): I was wrong when stating that the speaker frames were steel. I checked them again and they are made of wood, which appears to have been repainted-underneath this paint there is a black finish. The base is made of heavy steel plate. What would be the fair market value be if I were to sell them? Also, what would be the fair market value be for the transformers if sold seperately (parted out)?
Thank you,
Jean Cimino
Andy Szabo (2007-05-12): I'll stick with my original estimate of $500 -$1000 selling price. It all depends on finding the right motivated buyer in your area, at the right time. What doesn't meet your reserve this month may become a bidding war next month. Being a somewhat esoteric product, the buyers are few and far between, but I assure you they're out there.
I would hate to see the panels and interfaces broken up as a set. Once broken up, the components become worth less than the whole system. But if that is the only way you can sell them, I would say only about 30% for either item, of the full set price. In other words, if the complete set is worth $1000, either the panels or interfaces are worth $300/pr.
James Tiong (2007-05-30): Hi Jean,
I'm in the market for a pair of Acoustat MK-121C Medallion Transformer/interfaces. I like to know if it is still avaliable for I would like to purchase it from you. Thanks and hear from you soon.
James Tiong
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Servo Charge amplifier, resistor needed
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Len Charlap (2004-03-31): I have been trying to keep my Servo-Charge Amps running and I have a friendly tech helping me. Recently a 6.8 mohm 4w resistor that goes across the 5,000v power supply failed. Apparently Ohmite has a satisfactory replacement in their maxi-mox line (mox-3-136804F), but they tell me nobody in the world has any. They are willing to make them special order, but I have been unable to get a price out of them. Does anyone know an alternate source.
Mike Savuto (2004-04-01): Len, That is an unusual part, but we can supply it to you. We have the original part (only the later black 5%, not the early brown 10% part) removed from amps we have upgraded.
We sell them for $5.00@ plus shipping. We can also provide a complete set of high quality 1% replacements of all the high voltage resistors, 10k15w, 10k5w, 500meg, 680k and the 6.8meg.
The prices and benefits of upgrading these resistor is discussed in our Upgrade Summary Letter in the "refurbishment" of the Acoustat section of the this website. You can contact me at Acoustat@swbell.net if you are interested. Michael Savuto, Analogue Associates, LLC
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Single panel w/sub
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Doug (2007-04-21): Hello,
I have 1+1's with all the latest updates but with trashed panels (rips near frame). I have located two 8" replacement panels. I have mated 1+1's with a Mirage BP 150 sub crossed at 80Hz with good results. Can I use the 1+1 interfaces on only a single panel? How much bass will I likely lose/what sub crossover frequency will likely be required?
Thanks
PS I know I will need to fabricate some kind of frame but that should probably be the subject of another post.
PPS These are only surround speakers so maybe some parameters are slightly less critical.
Andy Szabo (2007-04-27): You will lose a lot of bass. You are reducing the panel area by more than 50%, since you are changing from two-9" panels to one-8" panel.
You'll probably want to increase your crossover frequency to about 150 Hz. That's the approximate value used in Acoustat's single-panel Model One. Unfortunately, at that high a frequency, bass becomes directional, and with only a single sub, LF imaging will suffer (perhaps not an issue for your surround system).
I don't see any reason why you can't drive only one panel with the MK-121 interface. To keep from over-driving the panel at low frequencies, it may be advisable to add a high pass crossover there.
Needless to say, you'll need to experiment to get everything adjusted correctly. But I see no reason why your ideas couldn't be made to work.
Write again if you have any more questions - sounds like an interesting project!
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Spectra 2123 interface and older panels
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Paul J. Stiles (2005-04-24): I have a quantity of non-spectra panels that have 5 wires each. I was wondering, if I "pluck" the panels, making them the equivalent of spectra panels, can a spectra MK-2123 interface drive four panels in a 2+2 configurarion? Or is this too many panels a MK-2123 interface?
Beings each panel is now segmented into two sections, a 2+2 configuration would have four segments from left to right. For the left speaker, going from left to right, I would have a Low segment, a Mid&Low segment, a Full Range segment, and a Mid&Low segment. The right speaker would a mirror image.
Thank you,
Paul J. Stiles
Andy Szabo (2006-03-29): Five-wire, non-Spectra panels can be converted into Spectra panels by making a break in both wire grids. It's not an easy task, and great care must be taken not to harm the Mylar diaphragm. Be sure to insulate the ends of the wires with shrink tubing or a dab of epoxy.
The MK-2123 interface was designed to drive a two or three panel system. This is not to say that it cannot drive four panels, but the sectoring crossover points will be off by roughly a factor of two, and you will likely have a bit too much bass boost (even using the orange bass tap). The MK-2146 interface used on Spectra 44/4400 and 66/6600 (four and six panel systems) has a different transformer with less bass boost, as well as different sectoring resistors and capacitors to compensate for the multiple panels. See my Technical Bulletin "Spectra Series, Bass Equalization, Transformer Taps" for more details.
Schematics are available through this website so you can see the different resistor and capacitor values used in the MK-2146 interface. Assuming you can find the appropriate values to substitute, this project could be worthwhile. Otherwise, I think the results would be dissappointing with a stock MK-2123.
The sectoring you describe is correct. See my Technical Bulletin "Spectra Sectoring & Color Codes" for a diagram that shows the sectoring arrangement for all Spectra Models (note the diagram is for the right speaker).
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Various, Acoustats and Child Safety
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Rick Perell (2004-02-23): I am a new father with an old pair of acoustat spectra electostatic speakers. Do I have to worry about my child crawling and poking around the speakers? Thanks, concerned Dad
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): It is true that electrostatic loudspeakers do contain hazardous high voltages, but as electrostatics go, Acoustats are quite safe.
Do make sure that the metal interface chassis is properly bolted down: this is where the greatest shock hazard exists. The panel section also contains high voltages, but it is fairly inaccessible with the grille cloth in place. Obviously, a slender metal object, thrust through the grille cloth, could come into contact with high voltage and produce a mild shock, but the chances of that are pretty slim. Any child who would do that probably deserves a bit of a shock anyway (just kidding - sort of).
There are far greater dangers in your home for you to be concerned about, such as electrical outlets and toxic chemicals. As a concerned parent, I'm sure you've already taken steps to ”childproof” those items. So rest easy dad: it is possible to both enjoy good music, and to raise your children in safety.
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Various, custom made pair with problem
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Eric Michelson (2004-02-23): I have a custom pair of acoustats. they are actually 2 pairs that have been combined to equal 2 large acoustats with ribbon tweeters onthe side. It appears that my low end transformers have a problem on one of the speakers. How can I test to see which transformer is bad, and where can I find a replacement? I don't know what to do and I love these speakers. Eric Michelson
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The usual procedure is to swap the interfaces from one speaker to the other, in an effort to isolate the problem to the interface. If the problem follows the interface, then the problem is in the interface. This is usually the case, since the panels rarely, if ever, go bad.
Replacement transformers are not generally available, although a repair service is available at Sounds Like New (see information posted under “Refurbishing”). They do not sell parts, but they are capable of repairing your interface, and they claim to have a good stock of transformers available. Your best bet is to verify that the problem is in the interface, and then send it to them for repair. They can figure out the exact nature of your problem.
The transformers themselves are difficult to test, other than a simple ohmmeter test comparing each winding to a known good unit. However, even a malfunctioning transformer can pass an ohmmeter test. Typical transformer problems occur only under high-voltage conditions, when the voltage is sufficient for the winding(s) to arc over.
Besides the LF transformer itself, you may want to check the two 50,000-ohm, 50-watt resistors for the correct ohm-value and/or signs of arcing or burning. These resistors are fairly reliable, but I have seen them go bad. They are readily available from electronics distributors. (This last paragraph assumes you have the MK-121 series interfaces.)
Gary Clausen (2007-06-04): I have seen the insulation on one of my bass
transformers appear thin in one spot. Perhaps
broken internal conductor as I had week/distorted
bass from one of my interfaces. splicing and
resoldering fixed it the put some teflon shrink
tubing over the splice. BTW, does anybody know
the insulation used for the Medallion leads.
Does seem like teflon to me, but not sure?
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Various, large model Acoustats
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Ronald P. Hicks (2004-03-12): The model Eight has two interfaces per speaker (along with the Six) and requires a total of four channels of amplification for the system.
What was the reason for the double interface - does one alone provide insufficient bias or power capability for that many panels.
I assume the Eight had each interface wired to four of the panels, did the Six have three each wired?
Also, the Eight requires a 'massive' room to work properly and sound good (20x30?) - what would be the minimum room dimensions one could use this system in? Mine is 13X25 - would this be too small for the Sixes?
The largest Spectra model was the 6600. Did Acoustat ever plan to make an eight panel (Spectra 8800?) to be the equivalent of the model 8?
Andy Szabo (2004-03-12): The purpose of two interfaces per speaker on the Model Six and Model Eight was not a case of insufficient bias or ”power”. Rather, it was a case of a single interface's inability to drive such a large capacitance, with adverse affects on the load impedance and frequency response. On the Model Six, each interface drives three panels, divided between upper and lower halves. The Model Eight is similarly arranged, with each interface driving four panels each.
The largest of the Spectra models, the Spectra 66/6600, does not require two interfaces per speaker, due to the very different transformers used in the Spectra series.
An eight panel Spectra, an ”8800”, was never seriously considered, though it was technically possible. Sales of the Model Eight never exceeded a handful of pairs per year, so the sales potential for a Spectra 8800 was not considered sufficient to produce such a model.
I once owned a pair of Model Sixes, and used them with very good results in a 17 x 25 foot room. I think you could have good results with either a Model Six or Spectra 66/6600 in a 13 x 25 foot room, with the speakers firing along the longer axis of the room. For a variety of reasons, the Spectra 66/6600 will provide better sound (with half the amplifier requirement), particularly in a smaller room where its controlled dispersion would be better suited. A room of that size would probably be too small for the Model Eights.
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Various, Model 8 and model X
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David Weiss (2004-02-23): I have acoustat Model 8 and Model X. I want to know if they can be damaged by being close to a window airconditioner. The air coming out and going in to the unit can the panels be damaged?
Barry Waldron (2004-02-23): The cold air discharge from an air conditioner in close proximity to the speaker should not do it any harm; however, if the unit is also a heater, then hot air could damage the diaphragm if it is directed toward the speaker. it is quite possible that the air movement would displace the diaphragm and modulate it if allowed to enter the speaker. Prudence dictates placing the speakers in a way that does not permit the air from the window unit to directly hit the speaker.
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Various, models question
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Andy Pechenik (2004-02-23): I thought that the Servo Amp Driven Acoustats were the first models. Acoustat X then Monitor Series. I have Monitor 4s.
Mike Savuto (2004-02-23): The first model manufactured by Acoustat was the Acoustat X, made from late 1976 until early 1980. The ”X” designation was actually stylized from the electrical representation of an electrostatic speaker design ”>|<” as shown in the manuals. This is the floor standing speaker with the panels in a Walnut trimmed cabinet with the Servo-Charged amplifiers in the bottom of the cabinet and the removable ”pegboard” back. They retailed for $1995.
The Monitor 4 came out in late 1978 or early 1979 at about $2995. Acoustat made it available as a DIY kit to upgrade Acoustat X's as well at a very reasonable price, $750. The original Monitor 4 was the ”Wing” design with solid Mahogany (black grill cloth) or Oak (white grill cloth) top and bottom caps on a separate base as shown in the pictures on the ESL website.
In 1980 the Monitor 4 cosmetics were changed so that the ”Wing” extended to the floor, doing away with the separate base. It was now a monolith design. This is the design shown in the Owners and Service Manual also made available during that time.
The Model X was superceded during that same time by a Monitor 3 with the monolith cosmetics similar to that of the revised Monitor 4. Also in 1980 the first Magnetic-Kinetic (MK-121) interface was introduced. For a time the Monitor 3 and 4 were available with the Servo-Charged amplifiers and the same panel configuration with the MK-121 interface designated as ”Model 3 or 4”.
In December of 1981 the last Servo-Charged amplifiers were built. All subsequent models utilized the MK-121, and later the Spectra, interface and amplifiers of the owners choice. One source of confusion is that every Servo-Charged amplifier, until very close to the end of production, had ”Acoustat Model X” on the serial number sticker. The amplifiers were all the same basic design for each model.
The model designation of the speaker array itself was never indicated on the speaker ”cabinet” or the Servo-Charged amplifiers. During the time when the MK-121 was being introduced, and the Servo-Charged Amplifiers were being phased out, an excellent article was produced by a short lived audiophile publication, whose name escapes me, that tested and compared the sonics of two designs and officially announced the passing of the Servo-Charged amplifiers. The King was dead.
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Various, purchase information
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Don Lewis (2004-02-23): Andy, my name is Don Lewis and I live here in Phoenix. Phone 480 860 8591. I would like to purchase a pair of Acoustats. I see some for sale on the ESL web site. My problem is I am not sure of what to buy. Many years ago I had a pair when I lived in Michigan in the late 70's I wish I could remember what the model was. Anyway I would appreciate it if you could advise me what to buy (speaker and amps) and or knowledge of a source. Something here in the area would obliviously be wonderful but anywhere if O.K. I sure you get too many requests but when I saw that they used to be made right here and then your name I could not resist. By the way I know a Joe and Linda Szabo here in town, any relationship? Thank you and it would be great if you could take the time to help. Regards, Don Lewis
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): If I were searching for a pair of Acoustats, I would certainly seek out one of the Spectra models. They represent the finest products made by Acoustat. The only remaining question would be which Spectra model. Since all the Spectra models have very similar sound characteristics, it becomes a question of how much you want to spend and how much room you have available. Take a look at the model listings on this website to see a basic description of each model. There are many amplifiers to choose from, and I make it a habit of not making recommendations in that area. Be aware, however, that unless you listen to only very low-level, soft music, you will need an amplifier of at least 100 watts per channel (8-ohm rating) with a known capability of driving low impedances.
Sorry, but I am not related to your friends. Szabo may be an unusual name, but it is actually very common among people of Hungarian decent.
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Various, some questions
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Ronald P. Hicks (2004-03-03): Andy: A number of misc. Acoustat questions:
1. Are there any frequency response, distortion or other specs/limitations in the transformers that would limit the sound quality of any of the Acoustat models?
2. All the multiple panel pre-Spectra models angled the panels to improve disburtion. Since the angle of the panels at the back of the speaker would be toed inward, would there be any sort of phase cancellation or other effects on the sound?
3. Since many models were the height of a standard eight foot ceiling, some of my audiophile friends have suggested the speakers 'sway' slightly while playing and say bracing them at the ceiling would improve imaging. Does this have any merit or are they just audio geeks splitting hairs?
4. I believe all the MK series of interfaces used a 5 amp slow blow fuse. Since this site gets many questions about blowing the low frequency transformer (expensive), would switching to a 5 amp fast blow fuse offer better protection? I went to this arrangement after losing a transformer myself. Or are there other recommendations to help protect the interface (outside of not playing the speaker excessively loud and using a large enough amp).
5. Finally, how do you explain how such a design can reproduce the bass levels it does without the traditional cabinet to cancel the out of phase back waves? This would apply to any thin film membrane technology speaker using an open frame style of construction.
Andy Szabo (2004-04-01): 1. There are limitations inherent in the transformers that affect the sound quality. No transformer is ideal, and any transformer designed for a specific selling price will naturally involve compromises. The transformers represent a major portion of the cost for any of the Acoustat models. They could be better, but for the intended selling price and performance level, they’re pretty good transformers. Even a small improvement in transformer performance would have translated into a much higher selling price.
Note that the Acoustat transformers are custom designed, and cannot be “improved” by substituting another transformer you might find. This definitely falls under the category of “leave well enough alone”.
The Medallion and Spectra transformers built upon the experience gained with the original MK-121 Series. Besides better sound, they had much better high voltage reliability.
2. There are cancellation patterns occurring behind the speaker, and perhaps they do negatively affect the sound. However, those cancellations are a far lesser evil than the poor dispersion that would result if the panels were not arranged in an arc. (This is a debatable subject: witness the recent introductions by Innersound.) That is why the Spectra series is so much better: the curve is created electrically in the time domain, rather than mechanically in the space domain, so that the curve is effectively convex on both sides. Amazing!
3. Every action has an opposite and equal reaction, so it is conceivable that the speaker frame can “sway” on large bass notes. But I think it is not significant for two reasons: 1) The mass of the moving diaphragm is very small compared to the mass of the frame, so it doesn’t seem likely that the diaphragm could move the frame much. 2) It has always been my opinion that the resonant frequency of the frame is far below the audible range. By stiffening or bracing the frame, it is possible that the resonant frequency could be raised into the audible region, making matters worse instead of better. That said, stiffening and/or bracing the frames has been one of the more popular physical alterations done by audiophiles.
4.The best protection against damaging the speaker is common sense, and being aware of signs of distortion from the speaker or amplifier before damage occurs. Unfortunately, common sense is not so common, so a fuse is a good idea. I was not with Acoustat yet when the fuse was chosen at 5-amp slow-blow, and admittedly, the use of a slow-blow fuse always surprised me. Using a fast-blow and/or a lower amperage fuse is not a bad idea, and will certainly offer a much greater measure of protection, as long as it does not cause nuisance blowing under normal conditions.
5. First, an ESL has a huge radiating surface, making up somewhat for the small excursion of the diaphragm. Second, that large area acts as its own baffle, reducing much of the cancellation that would otherwise occur. A traditional cabinet is a baffle, too: it’s just folded up to form a box. Some folks (myself included, years ago) have experimented with adding “wings” to the speaker to increase the effective baffle size. That can increase bass response, but at the expense of the “airy” quality of the sound.
In conclusion, no speaker is perfect. In fact, compared to the quality of sound produced by our electronics, all speakers are horrible. Every speaker design is a bag full of compromises. When choosing a speaker, it is a matter of deciding which set of compromises offends you the least. This explains, even within a given price range, why there are so many different types of speakers, and why they all sound so different. Each represents a different approach to an impossible goal. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the music!
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Various, Spectra 11-22 and 1100-2200, differences
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Mathieu Soumireu (2004-02-23): My question is very simple, but Acoustat products are not very well known in France : What is the difference between Spectra 11-22 and Spectra 1100-2200 ? Best regards and bravo for your precious association, Mathieu Soumireu
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): The difference between the Spectra 22 and 2200 is purely cosmetic. The 2200 has a solid-wood trim strip around the around the edge of the panel, with an in-laid polished brass strip. Otherwise, the speakers are identical: the ESL panels and electronics (*) are exactly the same. These same comments hold true when comparing the Spectra 33 vs. 3300, 44 vs. 4400, and 66 vs. 6600.
(*) The Ultrasonic Bias Power Supply was introduced during the manufacturing life of the Spectra 22/33/44/66. So, it is possible to encounter a 22/33/44/66 with the older mains-powered bias supply, or with the newer low voltage-powered bias supply. All of the 2200/3300/4400/6600 models were manufactured with the Ultrasonic Supply. In any case, the speakers will sound the same regardless of bias supply. That change was made to create a ”universal” speaker that could be used anywhere in the world.
The differences between the Spectra 11 and 1100 are much more than just cosmetic. Both models use the same ESL panel, step-up transformer, and bias supply. The differences between the two models are significant, and are easiest to present in chart form:
Feature 11
woofer cabinet - particleboard w/plastic laminate woofer - ”good” 8-inch driver bi-amp/bi-wire switch - none hi-freq balance switch - none panel trim - none ESL xover capacitor - electrolytic holes for spiked feet - none
Feature 1100
woofer cabinet - MDF w/wood veneer woofer - ”excellent” 8-inch driver bi-amp/bi-wire switch - yes, w/separate woofer inputs hi-freq balance switch - yes, high/medium/low panel trim - solid wood w/brass trim ESL xover capacitor - electrolytic w/polyprop. bypass holes for spiked feet - four/speaker (1/4”-20 thread)
The Spectra 11 was introduced first. It was intended to be an entry-level system, and in order to keep costs low, it had few features and used few premium materials. Due to a demand for better appearance, features, and low-end response, the Spectra 1100 was introduced. Both models were sold concurrently.
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Various, Spectra 2200 and 1100 make a 3300?
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Erik Klijnsmit (2004-02-23): Hi Andy, I have a pair of Spectra 2200. Now I have also a pair Acoustat panels from the 1100. Can I put them together to make a Spectra 3300? I have read the schematics from the 2200/3300 and it is almost the same.
And now the question. Which panel must have the high, which panel must have the mid and which panel must have the low tones ? The Spectra 2200 have one strip high ,one strip mid, and then two strips low but how must i fix the 3300 panels. Greatings, Erik Klijnsmit, Holland.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Converting a Spectra 2200 into a 3300 is certainly possible with the addition of two more Spectra panels and a new frame. The 3300 is merely a 2200 with extra area for bass reproduction. Panels from any Spectra model may be used: they are all the same.
Complete frame drawings for the Spectra 3300 are available from this site. The frame is very similar to the 2200, only wider. Use your existing 2200 frame as a guide. The decorative wood & brass strips from the 2200 may be reused on the new speaker. You'll also need to construct a wider base, and make a longer metal plate for the top of the speaker. This site lists a source for new grille socks.
The two original (2200) panels are mounted towards the inside edge of each new frame. That is, towards the right side of the left frame, and towards the left side of the right frame. All four sectors of the original panels are wired the same as in the 2200.
The new panel is mounted at the outside edge of each frame. Both sectors will be connected to the ”low frequency only” outputs. These are the blue/black and white/black output terminals on the interface. See the diagram for clarification on the sector wiring, and the relationship between the different models.
The wire leads on a panel from an 1100 may be too short to reach down to the interface. I suggest using high-voltage wire to extend the leads, insulating all splices with a double layer of heat-shrink tubing.
Due to the added area for bass-only reproduction, less bass boost is required from the interface. This is accomplished by changing the low-frequency tap on the two audio transformers. The 2200 uses the red tap, and the 3300 uses the orange tap. Considerable disassembly of the interface is necessary to access these wires: they are underneath the transformers. Some of the wires will need to be unsoldered from the pc boards before the transformer assembly may be unbolted and lifted from the chassis.
Good Luck: this sounds like a fun project!
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Various, Spectra 2200/3300
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Mike Beck (2004-02-23): Looking at the Spectra 2200/3300 Schematic and the TTA-223 Transformer schematic, it appears the low frequency boost winding is actually a ”buck” winding, that is, it is polarized so that it will subtract rather than add to the voltage from the other windings. How does this work? Thanks for any explanation.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): We know that the low frequency winding is indeed a ”boost”, or additive winding, because it does work that way. But looking at the schematic or transformer diagram, it appears that it would operate instead as a ”buck”, or subtractive winding. Why?
Most transformers are of an E-I construction (referring to the shape of the laminations), where the primary and secondary are wound around a common core (the center leg of the E). If this type of transformer had been used in the Spectra, then the polarity markings would indeed indicate that this was a ”buck” winding.
However, Spectra audio transformers are instead of a U-I construction, where two separate cores contain separate windings. Note that the primary (black/black) and high frequency secondary (gray/violet) are on the same core. This means they operate as the polarity markings indicate. The low frequency secondary (violet /orange) is on the opposite leg of the U. This means that this secondary operates out-of-phase with respect to the polarity markings. Therefore, what appears to be a ”buck” winding is actually a ”boost” winding.
I haven't thought about this in ten years, so that's the best answer I can give. It makes sense to me, but I'm not sure if my explanation is technically perfect. Any transformer whizzes out there who can give a better answer?
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Various, Spectra concept
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Grant Newby (2004-02-23): Andy, firstly, my personal thanks and support for your contributions to this forum. I have some questions regarding the SPECTRA concept.
It appears to me that these models involved changes (when compared to the 121's) to transformers, sectioning of panels and post transformer circuits added to provide frequency dependant distribution to the sectioned panels. Based on this am I right in assuming that post transformers the spectra's are full range with appropriate eq for the panels (possibly / probably including effects for reduced panel area as frequency increases)?
If so, is it possible that the post transformer resistors are all that is needed to ”spectra” drive spectra panels with 121 transformers? Taking this a little futher, I have model 3's, which I have thought of quasi Spectra driving by running only the central panel full range and outer panels upto only say 500Hz.
Now for the ultimate conclusion of this, could you take the wire cutters, and apply appropriate insulation to the exposed wire and sectionalise pre-spectra panels? I love my Acoustats and would play with spare panels only, but is this as foolish as it sounds? Kind regards, Grant Newby
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Converting pre-Spectra panels into sectored Spectra panels is possible. The very first Spectra prototypes made at the factory were made with modified ”original” panels. However, I have never publicly discussed this conversion, because the procedure, while not difficult, does have the possibility of permanently ruining the panels.
This procedure can only be done to the later five-wire panels. It cannot be done to the early three-wire panels. The basic process is to cut the stator wires (front and back) in the center, at the end opposite the feed wires. This can be tricky, since only tiny loops of the wires are accessible. Shrink tubing can be used to insulate the cut ends of the wires. To prevent the cut ends from vibrating, they should also be glued to the plastic louver, away from the Mylar diaphragm. Note that if you do modify your panels, and decide the project does not work, they can still be used as non-Spectra panels.
The Spectra audio transformer has two secondary windings: a full-range winding, and a ”bass-booster” winding that is R-C coupled to the full-range winding. There are two transformers per speaker, one for each phase. The equalization provided by this transformer system is different than the MK-121 series, due to the much lower radiating area of the Spectra at high frequencies. How much different? I'm not sure. Could a MK-121, with appropriate sectoring resistors, be used to drive a Spectra speaker? I have my doubts.
Non-Spectra speakers have the panels arranged in an arc, for good high-frequency dispersion. Spectra panels, however, are arranged in a flat plane, because the time delay introduced by the sectoring time-constants provide an effective ”electrical curve”. The full-range sector is not delayed, but the flanking panels have progressively greater time-delay, and hence provide an effective curved array. ”Spectra” is an acronym for Symmetric Pair Electrically Curved TRAnsducer.
Overall, I can't recommend embarking on such a project. The suitability of the MK-121 transformer system is the biggest question, and it would certainly be a lot of trouble to find out (with likely disappointing results).
Your alternate idea of making a ”quasi-Spectra” may have greater merit, but would still have the problem of not enough high-frequency EQ to compensate for the reduced panel area at high frequencies. You may be able to compensate somewhat by using the yellow low-frequency tap, instead of the normal orange tap (for three panels). This will reduce the relative contribution of the low-frequency transformer.
There was good reason for Acoustat to use completely new audio transformers for the Spectra series. Not only is the EQ compensated for the different radiating areas, it also allowed Acoustat to ”fix” some of the shortcomings of the MK-121 transformers (i.e. less tendency to saturate, and greater arc-over protection). The transformers in a Spectra probably weigh several pounds more than the transformers in the MK-121 series!
Ed Houston (2004-10-23): I have done this myself with a pair of modle ones using the 121 interface it worked very well for what I wanted, however, it was weak. I think I had eletrical compatability issues that I did not under stand going on in there. If you would like to discuss my results and methods feel free to write, ehous31900@aol.com, I am in cincinnati, Oh.
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Various, Spectra segmentation
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Mike Beck (2004-02-23): Andy, Please clarify the segmentation for the Spectra Series. I believe they are electrically segmented to have 3 segments per panel. According to the schematics there is a narrow segment driven full-range, a larger section driven mid/low range, and the last/largest segment driven with low frequency only? This would require 3 wire connections per stator plus bias for 7 wires total? Also, how were the segments configured for the panel-narrow in the middle (symmetric) or along one edge? How were the multiple panels configured to maintain imaging in the array? Thanks for the information.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Each Spectra panel is electrically divided into two parts, not three. The two halves are physically identical to each other, and physically identical to all other sectors in the speaker. The difference is how each sector is wired to the interface. For illustration purposes, let's look at a Spectra 22 or 2200, which is the smallest implementation possible for a full range Spectra. This speaker has two panels, and therefore four sectors. For the left hand speaker, starting at the left edge, the first sector is lows only. The second sector is mids and lows only. The third sector is full range, and finally, the fourth sector is another mids and lows only. The speaker effectively becomes narrower as frequency increases. The right hand speaker is wired as a mirror image of the left.
The Spectra 33 or 3300 has three panels, or six sectors. The extra two sectors (at the left edge of the left speaker) are wired for lows only. Note that all full-range Spectra models are the same except for the number of sectors devoted to bass reproduction: all sectors carry lows, three sectors carry midrange, and only one sector carries high frequencies. This is why all Spectra models, regardless of size, have very similar imaging characteristics. This is definitely not the case for the pre-Spectra models.
Hybrid systems, like the Spectra 11 or 1100, use only one panel, or two sectors, per speaker. Again looking at the left speaker, the left sector is mids and lows only (above 150 Hz), and the right sector is full range (above 150 Hz). Everything below 150 Hz is crossed over to the woofer.
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Various, what did I find...
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Troy Ward (2004-02-23): Hello Andy, I live in an apartment complex. I walked outside today and behind the garbage I found these incredible speakers. ACOUSTAT MK-121-B. To tall for the apartments here, I'm sure someone just trashed them. Other than reading your information, I have no idea what I have, or if I can even hook them up to my stereo to test them. Any information you can suggest would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Troy Ward
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Wow: what a story! I guess the moral of this story is that one should never be too proud to rummage in the trash. Someone else’s trash could be your gold mine! The model number you mentioned, MK-121-B, is not the model number of the speaker, but the model number of the interface electronics (black box). This same interface unit was used on many different Acoustat models, so without further information, I cannot be sure which model you have.
Due to your guess that these speakers were “too tall”for someone’s apartment, I will assume that this is one of Acoustat’s taller models, like the 1+1, or the 2+2. The 1+1 is 11-1/2”wide by 94”tall, and the 2+2 is 20”wide by 94”tall. An owner’s manual that covers both of these models is available from this website.
You should have these components for each speaker:
- Panel array (as described above) - Interface chassis (MK-121-B) - Side plates for interfaces (qty 2, may be attached to the interface chassis) - Speaker base
The basic assembly sequence is this (the manual describes this in greater detail):
- Attached side panels to speaker base - Attached panel array to side plates - Connect wires from panel array to interface (red pin plug to red jack; white wires to plain thumbscrew; blue wires to blue thumbscrew) - Attach interface to side plates.
The speaker requires AC power for its operation. The red/black binding posts are connected to your amplifier, as would any other loudspeaker. Be aware that these speakers are inefficient and hard-to-drive, so for anything more than a quick functional test, you’ll need a robust amplifier to make these speakers perform their best. If these speakers are working, you’ve found a speaker worth perhaps $400-500 a pair, based on recent sales on e-Bay.
If they are not working, you still have some options. The panel array is quite rugged and reliable, so unless they were physically damaged when they were “thrown away”, then they are probably okay. The interface electronics may have a problem, but repair service is available from Sounds Like New (see the section under “Refurbishment”). A source for new grille cloth is also listed on this site.
Good luck with this fantastic find! Please write again if I can be of further assistance.
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Various, where were you...
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Cindy Martisko (2004-02-23): Andy, were you also an engineer for Acoustat in 1985, 86, and 87? I am a little confused by the data reported. It is my understanding that you were with Acoustat in 1985, and previous to that, you were with David Hafler.
Andy Szabo (2004-02-23): Checking some of the facts, I now see why it might be confusing where I was and when. My biography on this website lists 1988 as my start date with Acoustat: it should have been 1985. This was my error, and I will make sure that is corrected.
The following is a detailed time-line that should make everything fit into place.
I was a full-time engineer for the David Hafler Company, located in Pennsauken New Jersey, from mid-1982 until early 1985. I also worked at Hafler as a repair technician and engineering assistant from June to December in 1980 and 1981.
Hafler acquired the bankrupt Acoustat in late 1984. I was moved to Ft. Lauderdale, Florida in early 1985, to do engineering and manage the new Acoustat Division. That lasted until the Rockford Corporation bought both Hafler and Acoustat in late 1987.
Rockford moved the Acoustat Division (and me) to Tempe, Arizona in early 1988. A few months later, the Hafler Division was also moved to Tempe. It was at that time that I became involved with both Hafler and Acoustat simultaneously. I ended my work with Acoustat in late 1990 ('91?) when Rockford sold it to an Italian firm. That was a very sad time: I spent two weeks in Italy as a technical liaison, and saw the meager resources of the new owner. I suspected then that Acoustat was already dead, and twelve years time has proved me right. I was laid-off from Rockford in late 1993, when Hafler's home line was being discontinued in favor of pursuing pro-sound exclusively.
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